Replacing valves where the water comes in

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Aaron Fude wrote:

Yes, sweat it off. But if there is water in there (often the curb stop doesn't shut off completely) you may be in for a tough time.
Far better (and accepted practice) is not to solder at all, but rather flare the end of the copper and use a flare adapter into a threaded valve. The copper is certainly soft Type L or K and flaring is relatively easy with a simple tool.
Jim
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you can't flare rigid copper. so, it's not 'accepted' practice.
s

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true... I'm thinking a compression fitting might be OK but if you sweat the old valve off, the pipe should be "pre-tinned" so it'll draw solder easily. you'll need to sand it down though to fit the new valve on.
nate
Steve Barker wrote:

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replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
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Steve Barker wrote:

I said: "...soft Type L or K..."
http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/techref/cth/cth_8flrdjts.html QUOTE: "Water service applications generally use a flare to iron pipe connection when connecting the copper tube to the main and/or the meter."
------ j

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Something similar to this was discussed a few weeks back. I would use a ball valve with female threads and 2 male adapters. Sweat a male adapter onto the supply side of the pipe, screw the valve onto it, turn the water back on and check for leaks. then sweat the other MA to a short section of pipe and screw it into the valve, and then hook up the section of pipe to the rest of the pipe with a coupling. This way you don't have to worry about getting the valve too hot and ruining it, and you are going copper-copper, whih is usually easier that copper-brass. Larry
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Steve Barker wrote:

But it is standard and accepted practice to use soft tubing for water service lines. Type "K" soft tubing is specifically required in my area.
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FWIW, I have flared rigid copper. It was years ago, but I remember it was ACR tubing, 5/8 that plumbers call 1/2". Don't recall it being that different from soft copper. Larry
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On Dec 19, 9:32am, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:

Hi, what does it mean to "flare" a pipe? Does it mean to put MIP threads on the end?
Thanks.
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Aaron Fude wrote:

Here's a How-To video:
http://www.askthebuilder.com/Copper_Tubing_Flaring_Tool_Video.shtml
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I can't view the video on flaring, but will add a couple of things that may not be mentioned: First, before anything else, make sure you can screw the flare nut all the way down on the fitting. It should go on easily with just fingers. If it does not, now is the time to find out why. Then, before you actually flare the tubing, double and even triple check that the flare nut is not only on the tubing, but is pointed in the right direction. BTDT on all three. Larry
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Means to bend the end of the pipe out, so the pipe (from the side) looks a bit like the capital letter Y.
If you've done auto work, brake lines are often flared.
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Can anyone show me a link to what the key that shuts off the water at the curb looks like?
Thanks!
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To see one, go to http://lowes.com or http://homedepot.com and do a search for "curb key".
Or try this link: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&NB94961544&NeB94967294&Ntk=i_products&Ntt=curb+key
Aaron Fude wrote:

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The curb key from Lowe's doesn't work the curb shut offs near me. The concept is correct, but the tip end is too large.
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depends on the meter.
s

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Actually , brake lines are 'always' "double" flared.
s

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And, does that mean that looking at the end of a brake line isn't useful? I think you waste computer bandwidth with trivia.
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and _I_ think _YOU_ waste band width by posting.
s

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You waste more.... nyah, nyah.
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Children! Children!!! Play nice :-)
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