Replacing the switch on my Delta jointer

The switch on my Delta 6" jointer fused closed. I pulled it out to see if I could free it up, and it just fell apart in pieces. Perhaps part of the the problem is that it is a 12a switch and the (3/4hp) motor is 13a.
Anyhow, a replacement is $21, and probably just as substandard as the old one. What would happen if I replaced it with a 20a toggle switch. Would it hold up, or would the starting current fry it? Any cheaper and more readily available (and more durable) alternatives to the Delta switch?
The only motor switch I have laying around is for 1/2hp motors; oh well.
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A 20 amp switch is a safer way to go.

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Toller wrote:

Yeah, Delta switches are right on the verge of garbage.

By cheaper do you mean; more cheaply made OR less expensive to you?

Your only option is to buy something new. Plain 20amp lighting switches are not rated for motors. There are a buncha' options out there, The best one would be to go to an electrical supply house and see what kind of switches they have in stock for commercial / industrial motors. You need a sealed switch. Sparks and dry sawdust do not mix. A standard lighting switch works fine on the wall, but down in the cabinet of a saw is a different environment.
Tom in KY, be careful with your a$$ and it will stay around a lot longer. Maybe you should spend the $21 and if it all goes wrong, then you can sue Delta and we can all get better switches.
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Which model Delta 6" jointer do you have? If it's the open stand model, I used a Grizzly model on mine.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.aspx?itemnumber=G8989
Darrell

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thanks, the grizzly looks identical and is rather better priced!
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Yes, I had the older 37-190, but it's basically the same. You might want to have things checked out. A 3/4 hp motor shouldn't draw that many amps. I wont try to do any calculations cause there are so many factors. But as an example, I have a 14" Jet bandsaw that draws 10 amps for 1 hp, 3/4hp should be something less. The switch could be rated for 12 amps, but the motor may not need that many amps.
This is actually the switch that I used, but it's the same, just has a paddle: http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.aspx?itemnumber=G8988
Darrell

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Toller wrote:

about $10.
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How about leaving it fused closed (or wired as such) and switch the power to it's outlet instead? But yeah, a 20a toggle should handle it.
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Pony up the $$$ and get a 30 A. switch from an electrical supply house. It will take the starting current without arcing & will probably outlive you. Bugs
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HD had a little round toggle switch rated for 3/4hp motors for $4. I had to make a little faceplate to hold it, but that was easy enough once I found some sheet metal I could cut up. We will see how dustproof it is...
I would have like to have used the Grizzly switch, but it is hard to mailorder a $4 item. Oddly their catalog says it is 10a, but I emailed them and they say it is okay for 13a.
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