Replacing Subfloor

[ed]

I would not use the 1/2" homesote between the oak flooring and the

3/4" subfloor. Homesote is paper based, soft and flexible. This can put the integrity of your hardwood floor installation at risk.

Put your money into a quality 3/4" or thicker rigid subfloor that is properly fastened and glued to the floor joists. Use soundproofing in the joist cavities between floor and ceiling below paying close attention to any cracks or holes where air can infiltrate into the room below. Sound travels through cracks and is transmitted by moving surfaces. If your new floor is very rigid, it will not transmit much sound.

If funds are not a big obstacle, get open cell foam insulation sprayed in the joist cavities. This type of insulation totaly seals air infiltration and provides very good sound deadening.

[Dave in Columbus]

My 50 year old house has very squeaky floors. I have reached the point where I have decided to start replacing the sub floors in the upstairs of my three level split house. I'm way past trying to repair the existing floor. (I can hear my cat jump off the bed and walk across the floor).

I've tried to screw the floor down in one bedroom with poor results. I have 3/4 inch oak over 1/2 in plywood sub floor. I took up the carpet and started driving screws to both pull down the hardwood to the sub floor and to screw through the hard wood and sub floor into the joists. This only quiets very close to where the screws are, while the floor continues to squeak within 6 inches of the screws. It appears that the nails holding the hardwood down are squeaking as well as the nails that hold the sub floor.

Short of using 300 screws to cover the floor I decided it was time for a real solution.

I will trash the oak flooring and the 1/2 plywood, replacing with 3/4 sub floor plywood and 1/2 Homesote "Soundbarrier" and place sound insulating bats between the joists, all to be covered by carpeting.

I'm going to glue and screw the sub floor to the joists and glue and screw the "Soundbarrier" to the sub floor.

If I am satisfied with the results I plan on doing the rest of the floors in the house.

My goal is to have a quiet floor as well to insulate the room directly below the bedroom from noise.

Is my plan a good way to reach my goal?

I'd appreciate any suggestions as to materials and/or methods.

TIA

[BobK207]

It's a real shame that your floor system is performing so poorly.

That 3/4" oak is an awesome finish but the 1/2" plwood subfloor is way too thin.

I'm biased, I love hardwood floor. I would take it over carpet any day.

Squeaks = movement

Like you've said short of screwing down the entire floor (which might be the cheapest solution)

If you're going to trash the floor system, replace it & re-carpet............I'd try this first

I would screw down the oak through the sub floor. I would drill clearance holes thru the oak & the sub floor & pilot the joists. I would layout a uniform pattern so that later on I (or someone else) could make a fake plugged oak floor. I would counterbore the holes (you've got 3/4" oak to work with) & leave them un plugged (let the next guy do them)

Or I would condsider shooting (way over driven, crank up the pressure so they're subflush) 16 or 15 gage SS finish brads thru the oak into the joist & every where else.........just nail the hell out of it

Generally speaking it is difficult to kill sound transmission from the udpstairs to the downstairs in a wood framed structure. Having owned an old (1930) house with two young boiys upstairs, I can tell you the old floor system (1/2 oak over 1/4 diagonal sheathing) was LOUD.

The only sure way to deaden the sound is MASS; gypcrete is one choice but I hate the junk.

I just learned to live w/ the noise & they eventually went away to college :)

cheers Bob

[Goedjn]

Dude, Homasote 440 is DESIGNED for that application.

[Dave in Columbus]

Thanks for the comments. I appreciate the input.

I'll let you know how it goes.

BTW Should I just toss the old oak flooring? Is it reusable?