Replacing non-IC recessed lights


Hi all - I want to replace my non-IC recessed lights with IC (and preferable air tight) recessed lights. Is it possible to do this without going into the attic? Also, is this a DIY job? I've swapped out ceiling lights and have hung ceiling fans before and would like to do this my self. It's all ready wired, so how difficult could it be?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If the existing recessed lights are the remodel type, then you should be able remove them from below. However if they were installed before the ceiling was installed, you will need to go up in the attic to remove them. In that case you may find that the existing wiring may not be long enough to reach the new IC remodel housings that you plan to install.
I don't know if there is such a thing as an airtight IC remodeling housing, but you could install the new construction units from above though it will be a lot more (Uncomfortable) work. You may be able to get airtight trims.
There is at least one manufacturer that puts out fireproof housings to go over recessed light fixtures. You may want to look into something like that to cover over your existing lights rather than rip them out. I can't remember who makes them.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Yes, the ones that are currently in there are remodel types; easy to pull out. How easy would it be to rewire through that hole? And can a DIYer do it?
I did look for somthing to cover them, but only found a product made by Tenmat http://www.tenmat-us.com/fire-protect-products.html . Not sure if that's what you were referring to. something like that would certainly be the easiest!
Thanks for your input. :-)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Well they were originally wired through that hole so you shouldn't have much trouble. I don't know your skill and experience level or what tools you own so I have no idea if you could do this or not. Try taking one apart and see what happens. Worst case scenario is that you will need to call an electrician in to do the work.

Those are the ones I was thinking about. I've never used them, but if you want to block the heat from escaping out of your house and be able to insulate around the lights, it seems as that may be a good way to go.
You might want to also check out the lights that RBM recommended. Keep in mind that IC lights are only rated for a maximum wattage of 75 as opposed to the non-IC which are rated for 150 watts.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I didn't realize that, but it's not a big deal. These lights are rarely used, so going to a lower wattage is just fine.
It does look like the Halo H7RICAT will work. The only ssue I'll have is the ceiling is double dry walled. Hopefully the Halo can adjust that much for a celing of that thickness.
Thanks again for all the advice.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I didn't realize that, but it's not a big deal. These lights are rarely used, so going to a lower wattage is just fine.
It does look like the Halo H7RICAT will work. The only ssue I'll have is the ceiling is double dry walled. Hopefully the Halo can adjust that much for a celing of that thickness.
You didn't mention the double drywall before! Now other issues come up as a result. Depending on the thickness of the ceiling the new remodel cans may not secure easily to the drywall. Halo mentions in their catalog that the ceiling thickness range is 3/8" to 5/8" for the remodel clips. My experience is that you can push it to about 3/4". After that those clips are pain to lock in. If the cans are along side of joists you can drill a hole or two in the side of the cans and screw them to the joists.
Another problem which you may find is whether or the not the second layer of drywall was added on after the existing remodel housings were installed. If so, it will be more difficult to remove them. You should be able to check for this by removing a trim and see if the housing is set back or if the housing lip is on the surface of the drywall.
Why do you want to swap out the cans?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Well, besides the double dry-wall, it gets better. I was just assuming it was a 6" opening, but measured this am to be sure before I ordered them. Assuming is bad - they are 7" openings, which puts me back to the drawing board. Halo doesn't appear to have a remodel can to replace the ones that are there. They have something but it is very cost prohibitive at over $50 each. Is there another manufacturer that makes them for this size?
BTW, there is no trim with these cans. The whole enchilada just pulls out! There are clips placed between the layers of drywall holding them in place.
oy vey.... maybe building boxes for them would be easier after all! :-)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Well, besides the double dry-wall, it gets better. I was just assuming it was a 6" opening, but measured this am to be sure before I ordered them. Assuming is bad - they are 7" openings, which puts me back to the drawing board. Halo doesn't appear to have a remodel can to replace the ones that are there. They have something but it is very cost prohibitive at over $50 each. Is there another manufacturer that makes them for this size?
BTW, there is no trim with these cans. The whole enchilada just pulls out! There are clips placed between the layers of drywall holding them in place.
oy vey.... maybe building boxes for them would be easier after all! :-)
At this point I would just leave them as is unless there was some valid reason for replacement. Check other brands such as Juno, Progress, and Lightolier for sizes.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Well, Lightolier did have a very close size, that hopefully will work. I'm getting them from a local company, so returns will be easy if there are problems. These were more expensive than the Halos, but they are ic rated AND will be air tight. Let's keep the fingers crossed!
Again, thanks for your all the assistance from this forum.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Let us know how the job goes and the final outcome. Pictures would be great.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Absolutely! BTW, how do you post pics in this forum? Just put the photos in something like photobucket and then post the link here?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes although I have noticed from time to time that some people were able to actually post pictures with their text.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I know Halo makes a retrofit IC-Air tite. I think the housing is H7RICAT and the typical air tight trim is 30-WAT
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.