Replacing Home heating boiler

I need to replace a 35-year-old boiler in my two story,2000 sr.ft. colonial home. It is fired with natural gas using baseboard radiators and is a summer winter hookup (no hot water heater). I am at a loss as to what make or model to install. There are so many out there it is difficult to determine which are reliable and which are not. The next consideration is if it is best to have a separate hot water heater or an integrated on with the boiler. I would like to hear from anyone with experience in this area so I can make an informed decision. Thanks for your assistance, Ralph
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Go with a nane brand Weil McLain is good, Higher effeciency units are worth getting. Gas isnt going down in price. Having the boiler heat your water is more costly.
A tankless water heater like Bosch or Takagi will save you alot. Takagi makes Boschs larger unit, I have the small 117000 btu unit. My payback off a 1000 unit is apx 3.5 yrs but I switched out a high cost electric.
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (m Ransley) wrote in message

I guess I'm confused. You say: "Having the boiler heat your water is more costly." Then "A tankless water heater like Bosch or Takagi will save you alot." So which is the best way to go; tank or tankless? I have had a tankless system (the boiler heats our hot water) for some time but I'm told they are so inefficient they are no longer produced. Of course that could be story! Ralph
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Piece of cake.

There are actually 3 ways to heat domestic hot water. Tankless, either boiler heated or direct fired, indirect, or direct.
The indirect uses a completely separate tank and uses the boiler to heat the water. Most of them have lifetime warranties against leakage.
Direct water heaters are the typical ones you see in most houses now-a-days.
Which is the best way to go? It all depends on the cost of the utilities in your area.
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Tankless stand alone replace waterheaters, are not obsolete by any measure . Are in fact the easiest way to save energy. No standby loss. Takagi and Bosch have units that use either Piezo Ignition , 2 D cells , Mine are 2.5 yrs old and still checked high on a battery tester, No pilot No AC. They also have a model with a mini Hydro Generator suplying ignition voltage, And have remote upstairs thermostats. My Bosch 117000 btu for 900$ apx will have a 3.5 yr payback, Great deal. They are 82-83% efficient and last 20-30- yrs, no tank to rot out.
Obsolete hardly , the way of the future. Your boiler heats water as a secondary feature, not a primary Efficiency in design. I , one person cook , shower, and do laundry for 7$ gas in summer. I had an electric small tank that cost 30 $$ in itself in summer a Month. A 5 yr old Rheem with extra blanket in a warm basement. Depending on family size you will save 20 % easily over a tank with one person, maybe 7% with a large family.
Do you run 2 showers ?
Your boiler is probably at 50-70% efficient, and the HW function in summer 40% efficient at best, There is a 99% boiler out, mnfg ?
You really should have a load calc. Pay for one. If you want to save more start with a Blower door test and IR Photo of heat loss and insulate and seal up your house.
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (m Ransley) wrote in message

A Load Calculation sounds like a good idea. I have installed 12 inches of insulation in the attic and have replace all the windows with double pane windows and replaced the doors to the outside with insulated doors with magnetic seals. I also installed storm doors as well. But, to your point, I do not know where any leaks are at this point.
From the sounds of your posting the summer/winter hook up I have now is not as bad as people let on. I might just replace it with another, more efficient, boiler.
Thanks for your time and information. If you think of anything else that might be of assistance please chime in.
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You wont know Air exchanges per day, or if your house is a leaker or tight without a blower door test. Of course you dont know of any leaks you need induced negative pressure and a smoke stick to find them. Your house is at least 35 yrs old, that is before construction got tight houses. That is the cheapest way to save money and know your house and what you can acheive, a blower door test. Well worth the 2-3 hundred. If your new combo unit is 82-83 % efficient in the summer water heater mode it might be a good idea but ive heard otherwise, let me know what you find out.
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Tankless are Mainstream , even Menards and HD sell Bosch, Bosches large unit is made by Takagi.
The Europeons use less energy because they try harder, and have more expensive energy. Tankless have been the Norm in energy importing nations for 30 yrs. Even in Mexico small 5 gallon heaters with big burners are the norm. We waste energy...
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Decisions, decisions.....
Best bet is to get several contractors out and talk to them. Go with the most competent one you find. Get references and call them. Make sure they are licensed and have liability and workmen's comp insurance.
Just watch out for a guy named Dave.
You may want to start here: http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm
Good luck.

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Just know that a decent boiler either gas or oil for a typical size home cost less than 1000.00 on the pallet including the zone pump.
Get at least 3 estimates and not from contractors with hand-written tack-up flyers in the supermarket.
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cost
Define decent. I wish Munchkin's cost less than a grand. In fact, I wish there was any condensing boiler less than $1,000.00

tack-up
You're right about that. Check references and make sure they're insured.
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