Replacing gate-valve with ball-valve trouble.

[Leroy Mowry]

I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close, probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases like this?

Thanks

[Tony Hwang]

Hi, I'd cut and splice. Much quicker. Tony

[Doug Miller]

1. Saw through the pipe downstream of the valve.
2. Unscrew the valve from the other pipe.
3. Unscrew the cut pipe from the nearest fitting.
4. Reassemble with your new valve, two short sections of pipe, and a union.

[wayne]

sounds like the simplest job is just to leave the gate valve since it will stay at full open then just put the ball valve further upstream. Just leave it there it is doing no harm. Without a picture it is hard to offer advice

Wayne

[Childfree Scott]

When I have a gate valve that's too hard to get to I usually just rebuild it. Put in a new washer and replace the crappy copper screw that holds it in with stainless steel.

[Harry K]

Yep. If you can't cut and then remove both ends and refit with the new valve (you might have to insert a union) you can either rethread the cut ends or use a 'Dressler' couplings (not sure of spelling but any plumber will recognize that). They fit loosely over the pipe and have two screw caps that tighten down gaskets for sealing.

Harry K

[Mike Grooms]

"Leroy Mowry"

I saw you got a lot of advice, but the guy who explained about using a union with a new ball valve was correct (and this is written from the plumbing newsgroup). Since you didn't know about threaded unions, you might need to get some help on this. It's not as easy as it sounds.

Mike

[Dan Hall]

What kind of pipe?

[Bob]

just

screw

As far as I know, gate valves don't have washers or screws to hold them.

Bob

[Ned Flanders]

doug gave correct answer. Dont listen to the others.

[Ned Flanders]

dont need union though. replace with copper. use a slip coupling if you can't get pipe ends together; which is likely if there is only 3 feet of pipe exposed. your well tank that is on the other side possibly can be moved enough to allow a coupling.

it just dawned on me though that there should NOT be a valve there. the valve needs to be on the other side of the well tank/pressure switch.

[Dan Hall]

Yep- I agree with that. -Dan

[Lawrence Wasserman]

Just leave the gate valve where it is in the full-open position, and install the ball valve just downstream of the gate valve.

[jhill]

[Inspector D]

The gate valve maybe able to be "rehabed" Take it apart (remove the top section, handle and bonnet packing nut) replace the packing, clean the stem and gate with some emory paper and clean the scale out of the gate ways. Lube and re-assemble. Good as new! (and a whole lot easier)