:>:> Yeah, some kind of flex tube would work, I suppose. Maybe I'll do that.
:>:> I'm afraid to crank on the nut at the wall in that the drain pipe could
:>:> snap or crack. :>:
:>: There is a fix meant for just this situation.
:>: It's called a "Repair Trap".:>:http://www.doityourself.com/invt/6852578
:>: You don't need to disturb the connection in the wall.
:>:Just saw cut the tube out of the wall to the length
:>:needed to mate the Repair Trap to the basin tailpiece.:>:
:>: Use the finest tooth hacksaw blade so as to create
:>:minimal stress on the existing work.:>:
:>: Although the repair trap has rubber or plastic compression
:>:seals, I've found it helpful to apply a bit of silicone caulk
:>:as well to keep the joints in alignment afterward.:>:
:>: If the trap will be exposed, this repair will look "correct"
:>:rather than gimmicky.:>:
:> I gave it a big try yesterday to twist off that nut. It's a big nut, 2"
:> hex with a 1 1/4 inch hole in it, aluminum. I had a parallel face wrench
:> (I think it's a monkey wrench? Ford), and I had a pipe on it's handle
:> and pounded it many many times with a sledge hammer and I couldn't get
:> it to loosen. I found a wrench at a hardware store that would fit the
:> nut, but didn't buy it. I was thinking of cutting it off. A tool lending
:> library here opens tomorrow and I was going to wait and ask them if they
:> have a way of loosening the nut.
:> Today, I decided to give another try to twisting the pipe within the
:> nut. Grabbing it with leather gloves, I detected some play and I worked
:> it loose! I could slide it in or out, and I've managed to get it in the
:> correct position. I had a devil of a time getting the trap to stop
:> leaking. When I finally got that done I found that the tail piece in the
:> pop-up assembly was leaking water where it meets the part above it!
:> Rats!! I took out the pop-up assembly and applied two layers of
:> contact cement to the joint, figuring it will stop the leak. The water
:> coming out is obviously not under much pressure. After applying the
:> first coat of cement, I got the idea that I could have sweated the joint
:> with solder. I think the cement will stop that leak. It's not much, just
:> a few drops, but I want it to be perfect.
:> PS I think you are talking about a compression join with rubber and a
:> couple of hose clamps, or similar, right Jim? I had that idea too, but
:> decided that was plan B or C.:
:I haven't really understood what exactly you are doing but you mentioned
:leaks in the assembly. I do know that contact cement is not really in the
:scheme of things though!
I realize that the contact cement was a stretch! I could have taken the
thing back to Home Depot and gotten my money back or a replacement. I
don't know why, but I decided that I could fix it with contact cement,
so WTH! Now, I'm not sure I should have done that. The soldering idea
was better, but I only got it after applying the first of two coats of
contact cement. I left the thing in a 100 degree oven overnight for
quick dry, assembled this morning and there are no leaks. The big
question is - how long will it continue to not leak!
I've done many many unorthodox repairs with contact cement. I think it's
one of the great secrets - its versatility. Usually, I build up layers
of it. It gradually hardens over some weeks and months and ultimately
forms a very tough, durable and tenaciously adhesive material unlike any
other I know of. Epoxy is hard, but becomes brittle and isn't nearly as
toughly adhesive as contact cement. I could have gone for more than two
layers, but I was actually thinking of just using one layer, so I
decided two was enough. That water isn't under pressure - it's only
gravity fed. Will it last for 30-40 years? Don't know. I suppose I could
buy a new popup assembly independent of a faucet if I have problems with
it. Or, I could try scraping off the contact cement and do the solder
I would have brought back the faucet set to Home Depot but for a couple
1. It was hard for me to find a faucet set that I liked in terms of
2. I bought another faucet set (same one) for my other bathroom sink.
Yes, I could have returned both of them, but I didn't have an alternate
set in mind and would have to shop for that. My reasoning was that if I
could fix what I had satisfactorily, I'd be ahead of the game.
:Don't worry. I've done some unorthodox things in the past with plumbing.
:Did a double kitchen sink with garbage disposal. Replaced some drain pipes
:and all nylon slip joint washers but with 10 slip joints odds are against
:ya if you aren't a pro. If you take something apart because it leaks you'll
:fix that one and create two more. For one little drip at a joint in a setup
:like that, I've been known to cheat and finger in some a tiny amount of
:silicone. Maybe not ethical but it worked long term.
:Where the popup drain sets in a bath sink gets plumbers putty.
:And I've used liquid teflon tape on the slipnut joints before assembly.
:You're not supposed to have to if you have new slipjoint washers and good
Never heard of liquid teflon tape. What's that?
I managed the joint at the end of the P trap that attaches to the popup
tail piece without using teflon tape or plumbers' putty. I just used a
new rubber washer under the nut, and tightened it. Nothing else stopped
the leak. The other end, where I would have real problems putting in a
washer, I used some plumbers' putty.
I did some repairs to the trap system under my double kitchen sink some
years ago. Don't remember anything about it, but it's always been drip
free since the repairs. Have made an effort to prevent any grout leaks,
and successfully, because the rot under the sink attests to much leaking
in the now distant past. Will have to make repairs under there sometime,
but at least it's dry now.