My outdoor faucet is leaking at the turning knob. It leaks only when it is ON (couple turns on the knob) Since the faucet is buried deep inside the brick wall, how do I go about replacing it? or perhaps, it is possible to repair it from the outside instead? My house is built in 2002.
Thanks in advance
JIMMY
Might try tightening the packing nut before you go any further.
turn faucet on all the way, tighten packing nut 1/2 turn, that will likely fix it, if it still leaks tighten a quarter turn more
"Jimmy S." says:..... My outdoor faucet is leaking at the turning knob. It leaks only when it is ON (couple turns on the knob) Since the faucet is buried deep inside the brick wall, how do I go about replacing it? or perhaps, it is possible to repair it from the outside instead? My house is built in 2002.
Thanks in advance
JIMMY
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Is this a frost free hydrant or a standard faucet? If it is the standard faucet then yes try the packing nut trick, but if it's the "frost free" variety you need the parts kit for the make/model of your hydrant. ie something like this:
Here is the image of the outdoor faucet.
Could you tell me whether is a standard or "frost free" version you were talking about? Thanks,
JIMMY
Looks like an old style frost free. The vacuum breaker is sort of "permanently" attached at the hose threads rather than being on top. If its leaking at the packing nut then you can try tightening it like hallerb suggested. If it still leaks, then you can try to replace the packing around the stem. If it still leaks then you will have to find a rebuild kit like Jackson suggested for that style of a faucet. If you can't find a rebuild kit, then it should be replaced. You should be able to access the back side from the crawl space or basement. There are sites that explain how to replace these valves. DAG
By the way, the valve seat is buried inside the wall anywhere from 4 to 12 inches inside, that's why you'll always have some water dripping out after you turn it off. Can't tell from the visible markings what brand it is or its possible length. But if it doesn't leak when the water is off, its probably OK.
Take that picture to the hardware store and ask if they have a repair kit for the faucet. Bring any markings that you can find on it as well. If they don't have a repair kit buy a new anti-siphon frost-free hydrant and replace it, or call a plumber to do it, which after looking at that photo is probably what I would do if that was my situation and I couldn't repair the faucet. I'm an amateur plumber at best, and I'm not big on masonry issues either.
HTH.
replying to Jimmy S., Kara wrote: Do you know what brand and model this faucet is?
Do you realize how little this can be understood by anyone reading with nntp, none of whom have any idea what the previous post said. Why don't you quote or paraphrase it. Everyone on homeownershub does things the same way and that's why you get so few answers.
Yes.
It's called a frost proof or freeze proof sillcock, same thing. Brand shouldn't matter, they come in a variety of lengths, if you're replacing the whole thing you need one that is the right length, for the size pipe you have it connected to and one that is threaded on or soldered on depending on what you have. If it's just leaking, you can disassemble it, take the stem to a plumbing supply and they should have the replacement washers, etc to fit it.
Don't be like the woman ahead of me at HD, asking the plumbing guy there about if her leaking outside faucet can be fixed, with no info whatever. Her husband was worse. He was asking endless questions, tying the poor HD guy up about their sink faucet. He brought the handle in from a faucet that needs a washer and wanted the guy to tell him what washer it needed. The guy kept telling him, why didn't you bring the stem? You have to take it out anyway to fix it.
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