replace motion sensor with dimmer switch?

Hi, I have a motion sensor switch in my new bathroom. It's all up to code and inspected, but I need a dimmer switch in my bathroom, not a motion sensor switch. When I went to replace the motion sensor switch I was surprised to find 4 wires (not 3) going to the switch: black (hot), white (neutral), ground and something labeled "load". My dimmer switch only has connections for the first three wires. What do I do with the wire labeled "load"? BTW, this is the only switch for the bathroom light. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Steve
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On Jul 15, 2:38 am, czarklee_at_sbcglobal_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (czarklee) wrote:

Not sure exactly what kind of motion sensor you have. It sounds like its one where it's just a self contained unit that replaces a switch?
In any case, a motion sensor needs power itself, hence that's why in addition to the hot, the neutral is run to it. The load terminal goes to the controlled device, in this case your light. To replace it, the simple switch should go between hot and the wire that was connected to the load. The neutral that was connected to the motion sensor you can just cap off or remove if it's coming from a pigtail, etc.
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On Jul 15, 2:38 am, czarklee_at_sbcglobal_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (czarklee) wrote:

load is probably dimmed hot going to the bulb. but before you get too far, is that an occupancy [motion] sensor that helps run the light and/or heat and/or exhaust fan? (also some light bulbs types are not to be used with a dimmer.)
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czarklee wrote:

I' guessing you have a GFCI in the bathroom. Someone must have thought it a good idea to wire the light into it.
CL
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On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 06:38:02 +0000, czarklee wrote:

If you are able, establish which wires are neutral and hot and which go to the light fixture. Put your dimmer switch between the hot wire and light. Ground your switch, if it has a ground wire. Wire nut and tape all the wires you aren't using.
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On Jul 15, 2:38 am, czarklee_at_sbcglobal_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (czarklee) wrote:

You typically don't need a neutral for the dimmer (or standard toggle) switch. You'll only have line, load, and maybe ground on your new device. The neutral typically just gets spliced through from line to load cables. The motion sensor apparently drew enough power that the designers included the neutral connection.
nate
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czarklee wrote:

Ah feel your pain. It can be startling and annoying to get deep into reading something while perched on the throne, lose track of time and have a motion detector time out and the lights suddenly shut down, forcing you to flap your arms around like an insane stork to turn them on again.
Have you considered adding an "old work" box next to the motion detector switch and putting the dimmer in it?
You can then feed the dimmer from the motion detector, and won't be violating some code which might have made it mandatory that a motion detector switch be installed at the time the work was done.
That won't solve the problem of the lights going out when you don't want them to, but it will let you dim them, if they're dimable bulbs that is.
Jeff
    
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