repairing wooden gate hinges

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recently a strong (very strong) T-storm passed in my area and managed to damage the gate. the screws that held the deck gates were stripped out hinges, the screws were also lost. don't know what happened to them.
I didn't build the gate. the gate uses spring hinges.
I'm thinking I should get some bolts/nuts instead of screws. what do you think?
here are the pics
http://img20.imageshack.us/i/deckgate201104011000126.jpg/
http://img838.imageshack.us/i/deckgate201104011000129.jpg/
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On Tue, 05 Apr 2011 10:55:36 -0500, dilbert firestorm

You can fill the old holes with glued in dowel or even toothpicks. Drill pilots and put wood screws back in. Maybe longer than what was in there. Sure, you can use bolts but you'll get catch points on the other side, and they'll rust on. Screws should work fine.
--Vic
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On 04/05/2011 11:12 AM, Vic Smith wrote:

profile or would that compromise the wood?
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On 04/05/2011 11:12 AM, Vic Smith wrote:

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On Wed, 06 Apr 2011 15:04:29 -0500, dilbert firestorm

Never used it for anything that will be under stress so I can't say. Done plenty of hinge screw holes with toothpicks, bigger holes with dowels. With toothpicks I don't even bother with glue. Just tap them in the hole with a hammer, getting as many as you can in there. They'll break off with the hammer and you can hammer flat what still sticks out. Shave with a blade or file if the hammer doesn't do it all. It's behind the hinge and as long as the hinge beds good you're okay. Just drill deep enough to get the screw going in straight. Think that gate is pine so if you use longer screws don't even worry about drilling beyond that. But if it's hard wood drill your pilot hole to the screw length.
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dilbert firestorm wrote:

No. Use bigger screws; eg, #10 if the old ones were #8, etc.
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dilbert firestorm wrote:

I think you should just do it, why bother asking?
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On 04/05/2011 11:52 AM, dadiOH wrote:

I was gonna do the bolt/nut thing. got some good suggestions tho.
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wrote:

I can't access the pictures at work but...
Are the holes in the hinges big enough for Lag screws? Could they be drilled to handle them?
Lag screws would have beefier threads than screws and wouldn't leave anything sticking out on the other side of the post.
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On 04/05/2011 11:53 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

is they probably take in 1/4" screws.
I'll have to get some lag screws from home depot and see if they fit.
the spring hinge in question are usually made for screen doors. I have one like that on the screen door.
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They don't have to fit off the shelf as long as you have enough material on the hinge to drill the hole big enough so that they *do* fit.
Make sure you pre-drill the posts for the lags. Unless you get Grade 8 lags you run the danger of snapping the heads off depending on how hard the posts are.
DAMHIKT
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wrote:

That type of hinge is usually used for lightweight screen doors. You might consider replacing them with hinges made for gates - on the gate side they have a long tongue that gets a better grip on the gate. Also known as a T hinge. see, e.g., http://www.hooverfence.com/woodfence/plaint.htm
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On 04/05/2011 01:06 PM, Heathcliff wrote:

type of hinge. I had reservations about it, for one thing its a heavy gate, vinyl gate should've been put there.
About 6 months after the carpenter built the gate, the hinges eventually came off the gates. When I went to fix it, the carpenter who built it didn't have a lick of sense. He used small length screws He did, however, used at 4 long length screws on each hinge. I did find some longer length screws, I think they were 1" long and replaced all small length screws and fixed the hinges.
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On Tue, 05 Apr 2011 14:26:54 -0500, dilbert firestorm

I tend to agree, since he also ran the crossbrace wrong. Should run from down on the hinge side, to up on the opening side. Eventually, as is, the gate itself may sag, and as is, the crossbrace won't help much
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On 04/06/2011 08:03 AM, starrin wrote:

carpenter didn't put the cross brace on the gate to begin with, as you put, the gate would sag. so he set it incorrectly then?
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On Wed, 06 Apr 2011 15:01:02 -0500, dilbert firestorm

than yours and installed the diagonal brace as I described, and they don't sag. Two have been in use for many years.
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dilbert firestorm wrote:

The cross brace is correct as it is. They should run from top inside corner to bottom outside corner. Their purpose is to help transfer weight to the hinge post to help prevent sagging at the bottom outside.
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Correct-i-OH! The diagonal bracing is to hold it up, not PUSH it up. With a cable and turnbuckle, it can be tightened as it sags.
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wrote:

Cable, yes. Board, no. A diagonal board goes the other way. The difference between tension and compression.
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On 4/5/2011 2:06 PM, Heathcliff wrote:

Closest to correct answer. Wrong hinges for the job, way undersized for a gate that heavy. T-hinges may work, but finding enough flat spots on gate to attach to may be a problem. I'd be inclined to use farm-style drop-in hinges, where you bold a loop to to post, and an L-shaped piece to the gate, whereby the pins drop into the hole. Note that with heavier hinges, may need to make the gate a tad narrower, which doesn't look like a big deal. Go to nearest farm supply or fence store- they will have a whole aisle of possibilities. Print the pictures and take them with you, and look for the clerk with the grayest hair to help you- one look at the pictures and they can point you to the right item.
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