reokacenebt runm tire nomenclature.

Maybe OT for ahr.
Not only did my rear window break but my doctor drugged me and I hit a curb at 30MPH or more and broke one, maybe two of the factory wheels.
Is there a good place to get an OEM or matching wheel for Toyotas in general, or a 2000 camry Solara conv. specifically.
If I have to buy a steell wheel temporarily, is any 5 bolt 16" wheel going to fit?
The tire on this wheel is shredded, but on another wheel is a
P205/60R16 91H M+S
I'd like to get a steel wheel that fits the tire that I get that fits the rim I eventually get that matches the other three rims.
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On 08/11/14 05:38 pm, micky wrote:

And you were still drugged when you typed your subject line? :-)
Perce

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On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 19:35:24 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"

Must have been. I just noticed that when I read what I wrote earlier today.

It's amazing how many rim designs there are, a lot of them ugly, at least on the monitor.
When I put OEM in my google search, I found two places that had them just like mine. One wants 139 for reconditioned, relacqured or whatever to look almost like new. And another wants 120 for used, in no better condition than what many people own already. Neither said anything about shipping yet. (I hate that, when you have to put it in the cart to find out the shipping cost, and some where you have to tell them everything about yourself)
Tomorrow I'll jack up the rear of the car and see if the rear rim is still usable. (the front certainly isn't.)
I'll probably buy the better rim or rims.
That's 139 or 278 by web; plus 20 for the ball joint, 70 for the lower suspenstion arm (locally), not too much for 2 used tires (locally), and maybe a couple half-inch metric sockets. $450.
Should I tell the doctor he should pay?
The Toyota shop manual is not too good. It says so itself on the first page. Roughly: Don't expect to be able to fix your car just because you have this manual.
An inch and a half thick but I still can't find a picture of what the lower suspension arm connects to. (It has 3 places that connect, the ball joint (easy enough), a pivot point and there is a curved arm that sweeps back to where I can't see yet, and I need to know to know if I can detach it and attach the new one. I suppose when I jack up the front, I'll be able to see.

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micky posted for all of us...
And I know how to SNIP

Go to a place that can get stuff off Keystone Auto Parts. They are a MAJOR wholesaler of this stuff. Most body shops can get them.
--
Tekkie

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wrote:
I just got a good look at the subject line
reokacenebt runm tire nomenclature. I think it means replacement rims, tire nomenclature My right hand was one key to the left.

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On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 19:35:24 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"

I see what you mean. Please see my other post from today.

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On Monday, August 11, 2014 5:38:55 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:

Pick-a-part type wrecking yard is going to be the most economical solution.
I did this for an ex-GF when she had a Nissan Sentra with space saver spare , we were living in Dearborn at the time where flat tires were somewhat com mon. When she popped yet another tire and ended up with a whole mess of mi smatched tires, I bought her a full size wheel from the junkyard and a full set of new tires; one of the new ones went on the "new" wheel and the best of the old tires went in the trunk as the spare.
nate
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