Removing Roll Pins

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I have learned a few things about these situations. Pressing is often more effective than driving. Driving on the end of a tight press screw can help. If you are going to drive it with a hammer and it is really tight, don't play around with it. Get the biggest punch that can fit and the biggest hammer you can swing well. Hold the punch well centered and well in line. As my Dad used to say, "Hit it like you mean it". Don't try to tap it out with many small blows as that is what mushrooms the end. Another important point often overlooked is to be sure you have the stationary part well supported close to the work area. Any springiness, which all metal has, will work to lessen the effect of your hammer. If nothing else, have a helper hold a heavy axe or hammer tightly against the back side. You have to use inertia to your benefit.
Don Young
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On Dec 30, 6:30pm, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.com wrote:

You should have used a regular roll pin punch. The best ones are made by Mayhew. You'll find them at SnapOn, Mac, Matco, Grainger, McMaster, places like that. Most sets you buy will will last a lifetime, so don't sweat the price. I have some in my tool box that have survived three decades of use in a busy repair shop. Your technique for removal was all brute force and awkwardness. Here's how to do it right:: first soak in penetrant, insert proper Mayhew punch , tap firmly. If no go, repeat. If still no go, don't fool with it, get out the torch, bring the parts to a dull red heat, cool and soak with penetrant and the roll pin will tap right out. Replace with a new roll pin, same size or next size larger, resizing hole if needed for press fit. Using anything else but a roll pin is foolish, because it supplies considerable strength to the pivot area where installed. Using a cotter pin or a bent nail is only asking for future trouble. HTH
Joe
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