Removing an Allen screw

I have a metal coupler about 3" in diameter with a shaft through it. The coupler is at the end of the shaft of a motor, and is about 15 pounds. The motor is parallel to the bench it is on. There are two Allen screws that are separated by 135 degrees screwed into the coupler. I can not get either of them out. I'm using a 1/8th inch Allen wrench and do not want to break it.
I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions?
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On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 17:05:04 -0700, "W. eWatson"

Heat
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On 7/28/13 7:21 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

And/or percussive maintenance. Hammer, beatin' iron. Try tightening, then loosening. Tap on the Allen wrench at the bend. Pretend you're driving the Allen wrench into the screws.
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On 7/28/2013 8:05 PM, W. eWatson wrote:

All of the above are good suggestions. I'm prone to heat with the penetrating oil. Spray oil, then heat coupler. The expansion will allow the oil to set in. Then do as suggested with back and forth (or righty and lefty), breaking it loose.
Spraying, heating then leaving it over night is another option as well.
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wrote:

They would be my choices
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On 07-28-2013 20:05, W. eWatson wrote:

Can you find a straight, screwdriver-style allen?
I've had success with stubborn screws by simulating an impact wrench--grab the handle and twist as hard as I can, and with the torque still applied, smack the end of the screwdriver with a hammer.
--
Wes Groleau

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On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 17:05:04 -0700, "W. eWatson"

I have good results with PB Blaster penetrant. I would try a hammer operated hand impact tool with a socket mounted allen on the square drive adapter.
--
Mr.E

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On Monday, July 29, 2013 7:27:07 AM UTC-4, Mr. E wrote:

Is he using a regular L shaped wrench or an allen head bit in a socket wrench? I find the latter better for hard to remove screws. You can get more torque on it and it's more stable.
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On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 17:05:04 -0700, W. eWatson wrote:

I only know the classic top-ten solutions to stuck nuts & bolts:
1. Penetrating oil (you used that already) 2. Tapping (because kinetic friction is less than static friction?) 3. Heat (expansion and contraction may break chemical bonds?) 4. Leverage (a longer stronger allen key can move the world) 5. Impact drivers (I don't see how you can fit them in here though) 6. Screw extractors (I don't see how you can drill the center though) 7. Nut crackers (I don't see that you can crack the head here though) 8. Oversized tools (which works when the heads are stripped) 9. Saws (to cut off the head of the bolt) 10. Drills (drill out and retap the bolt hole)
Given your situation, I only see the first 4 standing any chance of fitting in your narrow confines.
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The stuck allen screw in my kitchen faucet yielded to a screw extractor. Don't remember if I drilled the center or not, I think I just used a size that grabbed hold of the 6 sided indentation.
--
Dan Espen

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On Mon, 29 Jul 2013 20:23:04 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

11. Cursing up a blue storm! 12. Calling up a repair man!
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Castle Thrust (penetrating oil) works for me. Also, lots of heat, from Mapp or acetylene torch may help.
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .
On 7/28/2013 8:05 PM, W. eWatson wrote:

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On Sunday, July 28, 2013 7:05:04 PM UTC-5, W. eWatson wrote:

coupler is at the end of the shaft of a motor, and is about 15 pounds. The motor is parallel to the bench it is on. There are two Allen screws that ar e separated by 135 degrees screwed into the coupler. I can not get either o f them out. I'm using a 1/8th inch Allen wrench and do not want to break it . I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions?
I would heat it fairly hot and then spray WD40 or the penetrating oil on th e screw threads. As the setscrew cools, it will pull the WD40 into the thr eads. I usually use a Bernzomatic torch or equivalent to do the heating, j ust do not get the coupler so hot that it loses its temper, if any. A coup le of heat and extrme cooliing cylces usually breaks almost anything free
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