Removed vinyl tile... How do I remove glue on concrete slab?

I am laying ceramic tile in my kitchen and living room.. they are connected. The kitchen had plywood flooring so I laid cement board as a base. The living room has a concrete slab so I plan to lay the tile directly onto the concrete. It presently has vinyl tile on it. I removed some of it and see that it is going to have quite a bit of residual glue. How do I get this glue off? I have all kinds of solvent at home including "goof - off", turpentine. lacquer thinner, and even, coleman lantern fuel. What are some reasonable ways to proceed here.
Thanks, Al Kondo
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Heat gun and scraper?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
the best method I know about is a 4" floor scraper. This is an oversized razor blade scraper, you can see one here: http://www.craintools.com/fs-tear-outtools.html scroll down to the 350 and 360
(top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I would not use any solvents, they would only create a residue that may react wrongly with the thinset.
Just use a razor blade scraper and get all possible loose material off, then using a high quality multi-purpose thinset, skimcoat the entire slab with a flat trowel...a very thin coat that you press into the floor as you trowel it on. Let that thin coat dry 24 hours and you'll have a great floor to bond to with the same high quality thinset.
You can identify quality thinset not only by the higher price (usually $15 and up a bag), but the small print on the back of the bag will say that it will adhere to vinyl, existing ceramic tile, exterior grade plywood etc. etc.
When I skimcoat questionable surfaces I use a liquid additive made by Laticrete called "333". Mixed with regular (NOT multi-purpose) thinset, it makes a super strong coating, and an excellent thinset.
Have fun. How were you planning on making the transition from slab to wood flooring area? Those two surfaces will surely settle and move separately. Many grout manufacturers make a sanded caulking that matches their grout colors. I would caulk the joint at this transition with sanded caulking. It shrinks alot when filling a large gap (1/4" typical joint), so you may need to apply it again after the first application shrinks.
thetiler
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
When I did my kitchen, I rented a power scraper from a local rental company. Well worth it. Was able to do all the scraping in a very short time compared to hours using a manual hand scraper.
Pat
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Are you the poster questioning about the thickness difference between the 2 rooms? If you are going to have a lot of trouble getting the old surface up than why not just cover that with the same cement board you used in the kitchen? Solve 2 problems at once. Your existing surface is obviously sound. The cement board can be installed, with a 2 part thinset, right over the top of the existing vinyl.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.