Remote wall switch for LED lights

I want to add a remote function for a lamp, but all the products that I have seen (X-10, etc) specifically say for incandescent lights only. I know they say this because flourescent bulbs won't work. However, LED bulbs have just recently been available, probably before these remotes were designed. I can understand why the X-10 requires the fillament in the bulb, but what about this product? http://www.heath-zenith.com/prod_details.cgi?file=3.2.348&type=0&value=3.2
Anyone know of a remote that just operates a wall switch regardless of what is plugged in?
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On Jun 13, 6:33 am, snipped-for-privacy@gate.net wrote:

"Flourescent bulbs wont work"? I have 3, x10 exterior motion sensors and 2 interior modules controling 16 CFLs. The exterior sensors are fine, some interior wall modules flickered when off until I tried different cfls. LED bulbs that I have bought are poor color, not honestly rated for Lumen, and way overpriced. I would only buy an Led unit from a store I could return it after I checked it out first, meaning I dont believe any are ready for mass market yet. Mine was grey-blue in color and put out near 9 watts instead of the 40w advertised.
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My experience has been quite different. I recently tried to use some CFL's on outdoor porch lights with a new X10 switch. They would not work and in fact lit up very dim all the time. The issue is that most X10 switches are 2 wire, meaning they are connected only between the line and load. They rely on a very small current flowing through the load all the time to power up the switch electronics, but not enough to light the lamps. That works fine with a resistive load, but not with the CFL's that have their own electronics, ballast, etc. There may be some CFLs that will work, but it's not the general case. Also using a CFL that might work might result in a shorter life for the bulb?
What you need is an X10 switch that is rated for fluorescents, small motors, etc. Essentially they use an additional connection to neutral to power the switch and a relay inside to work the load. They are readily available from Smarthome or Ebay and only cost a little more than the incandescent only ones. They come as either a switch or a plug-in module.
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On Jun 13, 7:45 am, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

What I bought from x10 isnt easy to find on their site, its a motion sensor unit like most exterior sensors but bigger, it has under its panel maybe 12 switches for setting other things it controls, ive had 3 of them for maybe 20 years and use cfls since 07 in them and they stay off. But quality of these units is kinda crappy, 2 now fire in near daylight, and exterior life is maybe 3-4 years, I went to HD cfl soft white floods because I was running 5 lights off one sensor and pulling near the rated 500 watts out of it so I was burning the mechanical relay up. In the garage I wired it to 4 fixtures and life is better since weather doesnt get it, its maybe 60$ at x10.
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Thanks for all the feedback. A bit more info....
The remote is for an LED pool light. By turning the switch off and on a number of times, you can set the color of the light. The switch is hard wired outside by the pool equipment. I can hard wire another switch but I'd prefer to use a remote. I don't care much for the X-10 remotes and am looking for something that resembles a regular wall switch that can be mounted with double sided tape. Thanks.
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On Jun 15, 4:22 pm, snipped-for-privacy@gate.net wrote:

I put a LED lamp bulb in an outside lamp fixture controlled by a remote X10 wall switch and found that it stayed on, *slightly* dimmed even when commanded OFF. Can anyone think of a way to have it really turn off? (I realize that a generic X10 wall switch will still leak a small current when "off", but perhaps this can be diverted? I also realize that I could just leave the light on all the time, since it lasts so long and draws so little power.....but I grew up being told to "turn off the light!" and have trouble overruling that!)
On a previous point: I have vairously also used neon nightlights or 7- watt incandescents to parallel CFLs and regular flourescents, if necessary, with appliance modules, to prevent a lamp from not staying off.
In regard to relay wall switches, many switch boxes do not have the neutral wire. I've considered instead to use the ground wire (since the neutral wires are grounded anyway near the service box). Is there any reason not to do this? The current to operate the switch would be very small.
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As I posted before in this thread, there are X10 wall switches available that have a neutral connection. Hence, they don't send the constant small current through the load to power themselves.
(I realize that a generic X10 wall switch will still leak a

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On Jun 13, 8:45 am, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

It makes me think a 7 watt incandescent on the same circuit as your led or flourescent bulbs would solve the problem.
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beecrofter wrote:

It will but not every application is a good fit for wiring in another lamp. The x10 "appliance modules" work well because of the internal relay.
I have also had poor results with CFLs and electronic switches.
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I guess the thing I forgot to directly address is the issue of LEDs. I don't have experience with them, but they could have some of the same issues as CFLs. I would think they have electronics inside them too and since they use very little current, they could actually start to light up from the small current that flows through the two wire type of X10 switch. Again, the simple solution is to use one of the X10 switches rated for loads other than incandscents.
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wrote:
[snip]

And quite often you turn the light off and it refuses to stay off. This annoying feature was included intentionally.

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Mark Lloyd wrote:

Try dimmable CFLs.
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snipped-for-privacy@gate.net wrote:

I have LED bulbs inside my garage controlled by motion sensor; when car pulls in, light comes on. No problem. I have few LED bulbs around house. Backyard patio has lamp post with multi color LED bulbs controlled by light sensor; when dark, lights come on. No problem other than I replaced one dead one a few days ago.
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On Sat 13 Jun 2009 04:33:03a, told us...

You should be able to use an X-10 appliance module. It doesn't require any particular load, and performs only a simple off/on function.
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On Sun, 14 Jun 2009 03:44:05 GMT, Wayne Boatwright

Incorrect. It passes a small current through the load, and turns itself on when the load changes a certain way. This can be really annoying when some devices (including CFLs) refuse to stay off.
An X10 OUTLET module may avoid these problems.
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On Sun 14 Jun 2009 07:03:29a, Mark Lloyd told us...

That's actually the module I meant. I use the outlet modules for low amperage appliances.
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wrote:

As I pointed out earlier, there are also 3 wire X10 switches available too. These include a neutral connection, so they don't rely on passing a current through the load to power the switch electronics.
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