Apparently you think you need to automate your entire home in order to accomplish automating 1 single switch and that is not the case.
You need a plug-in receiver, a 2-button keychain remote, and replace the existing wall switch for the floodlights with an X-10 compatible wall switch (not dimmer) module.
X-10 and most radio shacks have exactly what you need.
No, you'll just have to settle for the 2-address key fob and the plug-in receiver along with 1 wall switch module.
The only thing this would have that you don't want is an extra on/off rocker switch on the key fob. They don't make a single-address remote control key fob.
(endless X-10 raving snipped)
Why do you insist on drawing him blueprints for an armored tank when all he needs is a pea shooter?
Seriously, look at the X-10 stuff and consider the possibility of using a handheld remote to activate the light as opposed to the wall-mounted switch you seem fixated on. This will require a transmitter plugged in somewhere nearby for the remote to communicate with the light.
There are _several_ ways to use X-10 to do _exactly_ what you want. One way, if your total watts is 500 or less is to replace your existing switch with the Wall Switch Module (WS467-HA), then plug in a Wireless Transceiver Module to any receptacle outlet in any inside room close to the driveway and then set the house codes of the transceiver to control the Wall Switch Module. Then use the wireless keychain remote from your car to control the transceiver. It's best to try to purchase those three items in a "kit", you'll get more stuff plus it will probably be cheaper. If your existing lights are over 500 watts try installing lower watt light bulbs. Like I said, that's just one of several ways to do what you want.
Program your cars 2 extra buttons using x10 or a radio shack controller- transmitter. Set your car to receive code and you can program 2-ONs or a on-off sequence. Two ONs give you control of 2 separate light circuts, which you would turn off upon entering your house with your regular x10- radioshack controler. The third button program in your garage door. Each of the 3 car buttons are only taking one code. Not an On -Off code, its either On or Off.
There is no remote control. You turn the lights on (or off) with the garage door movement at a preset (limit) position.
The switch actuator is entirely mechanical. Mount the switch on (or next to) the garage door track so that the edge of the door, or a raised bump somewhere on the door will depress the lever. The roller on the lever is to prevent snagging. There are also versions with a plain lever and no roller.
The switch is weatherproof and I believe proof against sparking combustible gasses. It can be mounted anywhere.
The Eaton Electric switch is an overkill, costs a lot too. Go to any electronics shop and look for a similar switch to the Cherry switch with a lever found in
Cool, thanks for the info.... These lights are not "dimmable" lights though. I wonder if it will be a problem to put them on an X10 dimmer switch?
Cool, thanks for the info. The stupid thing is that I'm not sure if the current load is over 500 watts. I'll take a look at the total number of bulbs and figure that out.....
I suggested the non-dim variety as it can handle a large load, like 10 possibly
150w floodlights. The dimmer modules tend to have a 500-600 watt rating.HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.