Remote Control for 110 vac outlet?

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On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 16:13:32 -0800, "CWLee"

Sounds like a job for "the clapper" :)
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The one I was using operated by allowing a small flow of electricity through the load. Worked fine with a incandescent lamp but when I used a florescent there was enough electricity that it would try to light. So much depends on whether your setup will ignore this small amount of electricity or light up in some reduced manner.
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Go to smarthome.com and look at the Insteon products, (they are far superior to the X10 products made by Leviton and others).
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Also make sure the Insteon product you select uses a relay, the item you saw at HD probably used a Triac for dimming. Triacs are only for incandescent lighting, for an xFormer you need a relay.
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I solved my problem with a $15 "Remote Control System" from The Stanley Works. Purchased it at OSH (a California based hardware store, owned, I believe, by Sears) and it seems to work fine. Mine is in black and the remote has a keychain attached. For $1 more I could have had the same unit in green (sold in the Xmas tree lighting department) and without the keychain. I chose black to fit better with the colors in the display. For $20 one can get a very similar package, but which will control two items, each in a different outlet, by a remote that can select either outlet.
Thanks for the various replies on this topic.
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The warning not to switch fluorescents and some other devices is most likely because they have inductive reactance due to coils and transformers in them. However a very small transformer handling a few watts while it will definitely have some reactance may be well within limits. Here am making an assumption based on insufficient information in the original post, that we are talking about only one or two low power 12 volt bulbs; probably totalling no more than say 12 to 15 watts. i.e. about one amp at 12 volts? The equivalent, say, of a couple of small auto bulbs! Suggestion: Have the remote control device switch on and off a 100 watt light bulb (which could be concealed if necessary) AND the primary 115 volt input to the transformer. Rationale: The incandescent lamp/bulb is a resistance and will be a resistive load across the inductive load of the transformer. In effect the resistance of the lamp bulb will 'dampen' (shunt) the effect of any inductive reactance of the transformer. Now if you are talking heavy 12 loads etc. bets are off. Would then probably be better to use a relay of some sort. Post again if desired.
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