Remote chance, but...

SWMBO has a moderately expensive hair dryer from Ion Professional Products, Model 301100 that has broken cord right at the handle.

If'en I could get it apart, I could cut a couple inches of, resolder and it'd be good to go...there's the problem in the "if'en"... :(

There were two screws in the handle and a couple tiny ones at the in and outlet screens that hold the case together. AFAICT there's nothing else mechanical. I can split the handle and pull but the top seam and most of that along the barrel bottom do not seem to want to separate.

On the most outside of chances, anybody's missus/daughters/whomever got one of these buggers and managed to make a repair?

I can pry w/ a small bar and it sorta' moves the pieces but I'm feared to try much more brute force else't it'll break in two.

Any other "secrets" have used to separate such animals? Is there any chance't they actually spot glued these things together? The front and rear screws were miniscule...

Reply to
dpb
Loading thread data ...

That's what I was going to say. If'n you break any off, we can discuss high temp glue in a later thread (PC-7, white, and PC-11, grey) but you probably won't break any and if only one, no problem.

If there is a stuck on label, look under that for another screw.

LOL

>
Reply to
micky

The only "secret" is how much brute force is necessary. Think about it... how pissed would she be if you totally mutilated her wimpy hair dryer? This would then be the perfect opportunity for you to buy, and offer to share, that STIHL leaf blower you've been drooling over. Just think how much quicker she'll be able to dry her hair!

Reply to
Gordon Shumway

You don't own a Sawzall?

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Some cut.

Would squeezing one part or the other with channel locks or such help? It might let you see what you have to contend with. My dad would call them water pump pliers for some reason.

Reply to
Dean Hoffman

On 6/8/2014 8:16 PM, Dean Hoffman > wrote: ...

I'm not sure...the portion that is together doesn't seem to have any vertical play.

In olden days one of the primary uses for them was to tighten packing gland nut on automotive water pumps from whence came the name...it's been a long, long time since pumps were so primitive; now you can't even rebuild one and the one on the 3.8L turns out is just an impeller on the cover plate; the involute and all is cast into the block. I suppose most newer are now; it was the first I'd had to mess with in probably 20 years....

Reply to
dpb

I've thought about the hacksaw blade, yes...

Reply to
dpb

On 6/8/2014 4:55 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote: ...

She'd probably be less pissed than I, truthfully...I've pried with enough force using a small pry bar between the two halves that it feels more like it's likely the whole case/handle is going to break rather than come apart...but, it's no less functional if does than at present, anyway, just likely irreversible at that point.

Reply to
dpb

Try the newsgroup sci.electronics.repair

Reply to
KLayton888

Any screws hidden under emblems or other.

Greg

Reply to
gregz

If the plastic is translucent I've had some success with threading a small but bright LED into the case to "candle" it and try to determine where the latches are. My guess is that you have some sort of hook and eye latch along the seam that needs to be squeezed to "pop" open. Sometimes I end up having to take a thin Dremel cutoff wheel to cut along the seam when I can feel an obstruction but can't figure out a way to push to open - until I cut it open and see! That's when I realize how easy it would have been to open without cutting. A true Catch-22.

I'd also look hard for hidden screws under rubber plugs, warranty labels or fascia plates.

Reply to
Robert Green

Ultrasonic weld?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

dpb,

It's already broken so you can do whatever you want to it. Often the cord enters the housing at the base of the handle. If you carefully cut off 1/2" of the handle then you will expose the power cord and may be able to solder on a new cord. Fill the base of the handle with epoxy and you are done. Focusing on prying apart the hair dryer isn't getting you anywhere but after you cut off the handle base you can look inside for tabs.

Dave M.

Reply to
David Martel

...

I'm beginning to think a possibility as it doesn't seem to actually move along the top length of the barrel when prying. There's either virtually no give in the mechanical latches or it is actually solid which was wondering if anybody here had come across a similar one and knew...

Reply to
dpb

...

Nope; all markings are silk-screened on or cast into the plastic; no applied anythings...

Reply to
dpb

Still wouldn't have sufficient to get to the switch area where need to be to do the repair of reattaching the unbroken/repaired cord. Can _almost_ get there w/o taking the rest apart, but not quite...

I'm not yet to the stage of destroying it to save it and there's no way to see past the handle end up the upper barrel portion that's where the difficulty lies, anyway--it's got an innerliner around the heaters for insulation, etc., that blocks any sight lines.

Reply to
dpb

On 6/9/2014 12:42 AM, Bob F wrote: ...

Indeed, altho so far no joy...

Reply to
dpb

Are there any circular rings around the hot air input or output that could be removed??

Reply to
hrhofmann

Not externally for certain; the outlet side captures a guard but it's loose in a ring (can rotate it) so it's not the problem. The inlet side is a screen that's split down the middle; I can pry it apart at the bottom edge some and see nothing's between those two sections.

Internally there's a (appears to be just light cardboard) wrapper around it, I can poke a wire behind it in places and feel no obstructions anywhere can get to...

'Tis a puzzler...will continue to fiddle a few minutes now and again for a while longer before more drastic action...

Reply to
dpb

SWMBO has a moderately expensive hair dryer from Ion Professional Products, Model 301100 that has broken cord right at the handle.

If'en I could get it apart, I could cut a couple inches of, resolder and it'd be good to go...there's the problem in the "if'en"... :(

There were two screws in the handle and a couple tiny ones at the in and outlet screens that hold the case together. AFAICT there's nothing else mechanical. I can split the handle and pull but the top seam and most of that along the barrel bottom do not seem to want to separate.

On the most outside of chances, anybody's missus/daughters/whomever got one of these buggers and managed to make a repair?

I can pry w/ a small bar and it sorta' moves the pieces but I'm feared to try much more brute force else't it'll break in two.

Any other "secrets" have used to separate such animals? Is there any chance't they actually spot glued these things together? The front and rear screws were miniscule...

I repair those (wall wart transformers when they fail) They are glued together. I squeeze them in a vise slightly and the glued areas pop apart. Try thay..WW

Reply to
WW

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