Relocating a 10' x 12" shed

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Very! Hard to tell from here but it sounds like you have enough slope to forgo rollers & just use skids. And your challenge is to hold it back-- not pull it forward.

Remember to tie it off up near the eaves and down low- and don't make any sudden moves.

I work alone so the way I do it would be different from the way someone with lots of bodies would do it.

I'd hook a winch on it- get it to the hill- then put the winch on the high side and ease it down the hill.

With 10 people, I'd hand 2 people video cameras, then put 4 people on each side, each with a rope across to the person on the other side. We'd pick up the darn thing and have it down the hill in no time.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht
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I'm getting a picture in my head- a couple 4x4s with rounded ends, tucked under the sides and bolted to the shed somehow. 4x4s longer than the shed, with a couple 2x6 cross pieces at the ends, lagged into the

4x4s. Use a truck or come-along for motive power, and another one or a belay system on the uphill side as a brake. Tow straps, not chain or cable, for the pulling connection.

If you have a couple of buddies with 4x4 trucks, they probably have all the needed bits already. Basically make the shed into a sled.

-- aem sends...

Reply to
aemeijers

Was just built from material that became available to me free. The

15X15 roof was to hang a 15 foot canoe from, and the attic space up top was designed to store a pair of airplane wings if required.
Reply to
clare

Very.

Stuff weighs more, sometimes MUCH more, going downhill than going up.

I refer you to an old movie: "The Gun." They got it UP the hill okay, but going down it broke loose and cut a swath about fifteen feet wide through a forest.

Reply to
HeyBub

The hardwood was from pallets that large sheets of metal were shipped on. A friend had cut up about 6 months worth for firewood and he offered me about 3 weeks production worth.

Figure 4 lbs per board foot and about .9 bf/linear foot. Each 8 foot stud weighs over 28 lb. 8 studs per side is 32 studs for 896 lbs. Double plate and sill is another 480 lbs. so the framing for the walls alone is over 1350 lbs. with the window and door cut out. Add plate above and below window and lintel over the door and you are back up over 1370. The bottom 4 feet is lined with 1" thick boards - just over

100 board feet with the opening for the door deleted for another 400 lbs. We have not got the 2X8 floor joists or the 2" thick floor figured in yet - mostly spruce but still not light when there is 100 square feet of it. Then there is the 15 foot square top deck - again mostly spruce 2X6, with about 120 square feet of 1" thick hardwood floor. ( that's another 400 lbs), and the hardwood framing on the gable ends and the 10 foot 2X4 roof rafters on 12" centers (central ontario snow load) with 3/8" plywood sheathing and 20 year fiberglass shingles. There are"jury struts from the floor framing up to the rafters 3 feet in on the one side and 2 feet in on the other so the span is reduced somewhat. The gables are sheathed with tentest and covered with vinyl siding - and the outside is clad in hardboard siding. There is a 2 foot by 4 foot shelf framed in hardwood in one corner that holds my chain-saws, hedge trimmer and other assorted equipment, and the end acts a a rack to hold material (wood, steel, etc) as well as a 2X3 foot (approx) 3 level shelf where I keep a few motors and assorted parts.. The shelves and supports alone are a few hundred more lbs. If it's not within a hundred pounds of 2 tons I'll be very surprised. Then it's all fastened to8X8 white cedar (like railway ties) (resawn from hydro poles) buried in a gravel filled trench as a foundation.. So you would have to lift it almost a foot before you could start moving it.
Reply to
clare

replying to Commish, Bobjones wrote: I moved my 10 x 12 shead on pvc pipe years ago. Think I used 4 inch. No issues with crushing.

Reply to
Bobjones

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