Relocating a 10' x 12" shed

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Personally, I would try moving it. Depending on how the foundation was built, I would nail diagonal braces to all 4 inside walls to stiffen it. Then I would release it from the foundation, either removing screws, nuts from anchor bolts or cutting nails to release the bottom plate.
Then I would pry it up a little all around and insert shims or shim wedges as I went. Keep going around raising it 1/4 inch per time, the actual amount will depend on how strongly built the shed was. When there is enough room, slide a 4x4 under the two parallel walls after propping the walls up. Cut the 4x4 ends at 45 degrees so they act like a drag sleigh, and add some screws to hold them through the bottom plate. Add some straight and diagonal bracing on the floor level to prevent racking and caving in at the door. Depending on the smoothness and hardness the area you are moving over, you could jack it up a little more and add some rollers and pull with a tractor, pickup or crowd of people to relocate the shed where you want it. You may need to be creative in how to lift it and how to move it particularly it there are any turns involved. All in all, it has to be less work than dissassembling it and rebuilding it over again.
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I'd go with the rollers or the greased timbers approach suggested by others. I moved one but, it had to go across the street & through a walk gate, so I cut the supports and broke it down; roof, walls and base bolted wheels to the sections one at a time and had the neighbor hood kids help push and balance. We could have sold tickets to watch.
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re: "But, everyone in here always has such a wide range of opinions - from highly useful to smart-alecky and hilarious"
Well, as long as you brought it up...
Get a Sky Hook.
Hang it mid-way between where the shed is now and where you want it to go.
Hang a pulley from the Sky Hook and run a rope through the pulley to the top of the shed.
With some friends on hand, pull down on the rope to lift the shed, which will immediately begin to swing toward the mid-point where the Sky Hook is.
Using the momentum of the already-in-motion shed, your friends should be able to guide it past the mid-point all the way to the new location.
As soon as it is over the new location, release the rope and set it down.
Make sure to remove the Sky Hook afterwards to eliminate any danger to low flying aircraft.
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wrote:

from highly useful to smart-alecky and hilarious"
Well, as long as you brought it up...
Get a Sky Hook.
Hang it mid-way between where the shed is now and where you want it to go.
Hang a pulley from the Sky Hook and run a rope through the pulley to the top of the shed.
With some friends on hand, pull down on the rope to lift the shed, which will immediately begin to swing toward the mid-point where the Sky Hook is.
Using the momentum of the already-in-motion shed, your friends should be able to guide it past the mid-point all the way to the new location.
As soon as it is over the new location, release the rope and set it down.
Make sure to remove the Sky Hook afterwards to eliminate any danger to low flying aircraft.>
You know, there is a huge shagebark hickory tree in our back yard where I just might have been able to do something like that . . .
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Sky Hooks are not designed to be hung from trees.
Do not use the Sky Hook products for any use other than those intended and illustrated in the Owner's Manual.
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Get a Sky Hook.
Hang it mid-way between where the shed is now and where you want it to go.
Hang a pulley from the Sky Hook and run a rope through the pulley to the top of the shed.
To an eyebolt in the middle of the ridge?
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No, you don't want to damage the ridge.
To avoid damage to the structure, you should not use any mechanical means to attach the rope to the top of the shed.
Just be sure it is securely attached so that you don't injure the friends that are helping you.
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Some Egyptians. They moved a lot of stone.
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I have moved our 8x10 shed a few times. I just jacked it up a bit, slid some 2x4s under it to act as rails and set it down on 3" iron pipes. I would walk the 2x4s along so as to make continuous rails. As one gets exposed while it moves, I would move it to the front. Same with the pipes. You should only need three pipes.
As for locomotion, going up hill, I used a come-along tied to a tree or a fence post. Down hill was much easier. The key is to take your time. You should not be in any hurry.
Dan
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Commish wrote:

Two people, one at each end, should be able to carry it. If it's tall you should get a third person to keep it from falling over. With those dimensions, it's probably unstable.
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E Z Peaces wrote:

I was going to suggest a half dozen guys. Or, 2 automotive floor jacks and two 2x12's to roll them on. (and a couple guys to balance it)
How heavy can a 10' x 12' shed be?
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A typical pickup can tow say 3500 pounds! Any car probably 1500-2000? If a block and tackle could be rigged to a tree (or using another vehicle as an anchor) or something; using a 2 to 1 or a 3 to 1 line pulley ratio it might be possible to 'tow' the line for say ten feet while the shed moves say three or four feet. Then re-rig the line and another few feet. In a couple of hours shed could be 20 feet away. As suggested let it slide or roll on something; couple of greased planks etc. The break out the beer and the Bar-B-Q to thank the neighbours who by now should have gathered around to help! Well; they would around here! Biggest problem might be looping a rope 'around' shed so as to not tear the end out of it. Anybody with truck do driveway snow clearing your area? Such a vehicle might be suitable and might even have a bit of winch on front which could lift one end of shed. That and/or jacks as a start to get it up on the slides or rollers! Good luck.
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Bob F wrote:

The OP's shed is 10' x 12". I've never seen a shed that size that I couldn't lift with one hand. (In fact, I've never seen a shed that size that I /could/ lift.) I wonder what he keeps in it. Shoes?
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Commish wrote:

Jack it up and put it on a 4 x 4 sled. Slightly lift the forward end and pull with a tractor.
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The guy next door to one of my rentals drug one almost a mile using that method. The skids were a mite worn from the blacktop.
Colbyt
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My 10X10 shed is built on 6X6 PT skids and this is the reason I always recommend building sheds on skids...I have moved mine couple of times with my pick up using a chain attached to the skids..(SWMBO couldn't make up her mind)...Moved pretty easy too...Did scuff the grass up a bit but was easily fixed...Perhaps you could jack it up and put it on skids ???
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Forklifts are usually designed for cement floors. I'd suggest to take several two by fours, and screw em to the walls, sticking out about six feet. Think in the form of a military litter.
----------- ------------------ |------------------------| | SHED | | | |------------------------| --------- -----------------
Break the shed from the footing. Hire a video crew. Hire a couple hardy teenagers to help out. Put two teens on each board, and lift. Walk it over, set it down. Put video on Youtube. Post link, here. Feed everyone beer and pizza.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

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On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 22:46:32 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

My 10X10 shed would take a hercules on each corner if 4 were to lift it. 8 foot hih walls, all hardwood 2X5 studs on 16 inch centers with 1 inch hardwood "attic floor" Bet it weighs 2 tons (oh yes, the roof is 15X15)
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On Sat, 18 Jul 2009 16:56:28 -0400, in alt.home.repair, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

What sorts of explosions is your shed designed to contain?
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