I thought I'd get some opinions on this problem, to be better informed,
before contacting Sears about it.
We've got a two-month old large side-by-side Sears refrigerator made, I
believe, by Whirlpool. It's noiser than I'd like, and seems to run
more than other refrigerators we've had. But maybe I'm just thinking
that because I noice the noise, which is why I'm posting my question.
It's one of the 'Energy Certified' models.
Example: Today, after a period of at least 45 minutes when the unit
hadn't been accessed (no opening of door, no access to ice), the
compressor came on (I guess it's the compressor... whatever's making
the noise) and ran for over 16 minutes. That seems to me to be a long
time to bring the temp back down. If it matters, it was only 73
degrees in the house with low humidity (Arizona), and it was pretty
So.... does that sound normal or is it a sign of a problem? Any
opinions would be appreciated.
Tom in AZ
Nobody could say based on the tiny amount of data you give but if you are
concerned that it is running too often spend $25 and get one of these
Plug the fridge into it and let it run for 4-5 days. Then read the kWh used
and you can then know how many kWh it uses per day. Multiply that times the
rate on your bill and presto you have an estimate for the year.
Repeat the experiment on any other fridge you can get to (yours, your
sisters, your friendly neighbor etc) for comparitave purposes.
I have a rickety old freezer that takes 5kWh per day and a crappy old side
by side that takes 10kWh per day but I think that is way too high as that
fridge can barely freeze ice. I think the compressor is running low on
freon so it runs too often. (at about $0.33 per kWh third tier, thats
expensive (up to $1200 per year) I'm getting a new one soon.
I'm glad someone gave me that side by side though, because now I know I do
prefer a freezer on top or bottom more.
For the noise, try putting something soft behind the fridge so the
compressor and fan noise dosen't bounce off the wall back into the room.
Just don't impeed airflow or that energy star will go away.
that is a fantastic tool. i usually have 2 big CRT monitors running all
1 is the sony 24 inch GDM-FW900 and the other is a 19 inch Dell trini.
that tool just might help me figure out if it pays to get those new LCD
might as well try it on my fridge to.
What what you posted, it sounds fine to me. But you might want to
put a temp gauge in the fridge & freezer and see what it reads. You
might have the dials set high.
Let me give you some information for what ever it's worth.
Unless they have made changes from how they work, I can give you the
I will try to keep it short :)
You have the compressor and the cooling fan on the rear bottom of the
fridge. It cools down the freezer side only, but there is a fan in the
freezer that blows the cold air in the fridge to keep it cold.
The controls for both the fridge & the freezer work together. The
control for the freezer controls the flow of air from the freezer to
the fridge and back.
So, if you still have the manual check it for setting the temps for
both the fridge & freezer.
Also, since the new units don't use R12 they need to run a little
longer to do the same job, but do not use as much power to get it done.
I would say that if it does not make more noise then when you bought it
then it's OK (I thought they also had some units that are quieter then
others, I don't recall. I had bought a new unit about 4 years ago.)
Hope that helps,
Tom in PA wrote:
Your cause and effect is incorrect.
The new units don't run a little longer "since they don't use R12".
They run a little longer to make them more efficient.
If R12 were still legal, you could build a build a new longer-running
R12 unit. And guess what? It would be MORE efficient than the new
non-R12 units. Why? Because R12 is a better regrigerant than any of
the substitutes. It takes less energy to compress it, and it soaks up
more heat when it expands.
If you're comparing to an old "not" energy efficient refrig that used the
old Freon, you will find that it runs more per hour and sometimes make more
and different noises than the old. But like another poster said, it costs
less to do this. I was told (sold these for 25 years) that the compressor
runs under less pressure causing it to wind up to speed faster but run
longer to do the job. The additional power necessary to start up the old
compressors was part of what made them less efficient. You'll probably
hear some different noises that weren't there with the old also as the
compressor and coolant cools down after a cycle. The owners manual will
describe some of these noises and tell you that they are normal with new
refrigerators. As a side note, check the model number...if it starts with
the three digit number 106., it was sourced from Whirlpool.
Tom G..17 years in Arizona, now back in Illinois.
This probably isn't your problem, but I'll share it anyway... We were
having the problem with food freezing in our frig despite having it set to
the lowest setting. By process of deduction, I suspected the light wasn't
turning off; the bulb is right next to the thermostat. So, I closed the
door and pryed the seal back just enough to see that sure enough the light
was still on. Problem was the the door was so low it didn't push the switch
in far enough. The unit was under warranty so we called the company
(Admiral). Tech came out and said that was a common problem with these. He
reset the door and the problem was resolved.
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