This probably won't help, and I don't really know a lot about
refrigerator/freezer stuff, but....
maybe try unplugging the unit, wait 5 minutes, then plug it back in. I am
just wondering if the earlier event that caused the burning smell may have
goofed up the software and, if so, maybe doing the "reboot" routine will
work. Unlikely, I know, but it's free to try.
On Saturday, September 6, 2014 5:33:21 PM UTC-4, Todd wrote:
When it's running for that half hour, is cold air blowing into the
freezer or is it never really cold?
Also, related to the tech thinking it's a thermostat problem, does this
have a temp display? If it's displaying 50F, hard to figure how it can
be a thermostat issue on an electronic unit.
Ok, Let's call a few friends and get the food from your freezer to
theirs. Do you have a cooler? Borrow one if not. Get some ice. and move the
fridge contents to the cooler.
Great, it's no longer an emergency. Lets turn off the fridge. Open the
doors. We're going to thaw it out. Should take 3 hrs. Your beer will go bad
if you don't drink it. Have one now.
All right. Let's turn the fridge on. Set the various controls to mid-scale
or whatever the manual advises. Close the doors. It can take about 8 hrs for
the fridge to cool down. Got a fridge thermometer I hope. Put it in the
freezer. Those beers are going bad. Drink another one.
It's been 8 hrs so what's the freezer temp? Less then 5 deg F? Move the
thermometer to the fridge section. How's the temp there? Around 40? Move the
food from the cooler back into the fridge.
Let it run for a few days. If the temps stay cool then get your freezer
At a guess, your fan died. Without the fan the cooling coils in the floor
of your freezer iced up. Why the defrost cycle didn't clear this, I don't
know but it happens. You've replaced the bad fan and thawed the cooling
coils. I hope that fixes it.
If not fixed post back with freezer and fridge temps.
freezer at about 32 F. I'd take an indoor/outdoor digital thermometer
and put the probe in the evaporator air in the freezer. I don't know
what the temperature drop should be, but if it read 12 F, for example,
I'd think the problem was that the thermostat wasn't keeping the
compressor on long enough.
If it looked like thermostat trouble (as the repairman guessed), I'd
look for the possibility that some obstruction was subjecting it to too
much freezer air. If that didn't pan out, and it were possible to lean
a water bag against the thermostat area, a bag of lukewarm water might
be used to trick the thermostat and save the food until it could be fixed.
The situation is rapidly emerging. I suspect
Todd will be back in a few minutes. He'll
tell us that he prayed over his refrigerator,
and sprinkled with holy water and salad
oil. He knocked the refrigerator back into
the stadium seat, and declared it healed.
Praise be to Whirlpool!
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
It includes the approximate wattage at a certain ambient temperature,
with the thermostat at midpoint, in the last third of the cycle.
I paid under $20 for a watt meter than plugs into a wall outlet. I've
seen what the refrigerator uses, but I'm going to write down wattages at
specific room temperatures.
That way, I can plug in the watt meter to see if the high-side lines are
dissipating heat normally. If the compressor was cutting off because of
dusty lines, I'll bet the wattage would be very high.
haven't regretted it.
Besides watts, it keeps track of time and hours; so I can see the
average wattage of a refrigerator, and what it will use in a month.
It shows me vampire loads; some gear is a lot more efficient than other
gear. For charging a car battery, I find it a better monitor than the
On Sunday, September 7, 2014 10:36:12 AM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:
I have a Kill a Watt too and also highly recommend it. It's great for
monitoring any plug in loads where you want to find out how much power
they actually use over a period of time. From the menu you can put in
your cost of power and it will then tell you how much a day, week, month,
etc it costs to run.
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