Refinished hardware floors scratched

I refinished my nice 30 yr old oak slat floor. I followed all the rules and applied 6 layers of polyurethane (sanding inbetween then buffed the last layer). The floor looked great for about 1 month until the scratches became obvious. What can I do to reduce the scratching? More layers of poly?
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JaKe, Seattle
"People never understood, that the drum is a musical instrument."
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use a harder product instead.
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Scratches what did you use, scratches from what ,how. Did you buff to high gloss.
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m Ransley wrote:

Don't remember the brand but I bought it Home Depot in the rental area. The floor was in a kid's room but it didn't long for the scratches to appear. I buffed to a high shine too!
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JaKe, Seattle
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Charles Spitzer wrote:

Is there way to tell if another brand of poly is tougher?
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JaKe, Seattle
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JaKe wrote:

It will always scratch. Unless you are very, very careful...like removing shoes, sweeping frequently, etc.
Different brands of poly may vary somewhat in hardness (don't know) but if they do I doubt they vary much. As I said, it is going to get scratched. A sheen other than gloss will show them much less...the lower the sheen, the less noticeable they will be.
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High gloss is a harder finish and clearer. To show wear the least use high gloss and buff to satin. Oil products take 3 months to 8 months to fully cure although most curing is done in 30 days. Maybe use area rugs. Kids room, good luck.
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (m Ransley) wrote in 3132.bay.webtv.net:

The gloss is harder story is a MYTH. BS, baloney, malarky. If there is any difference, it is so minute, it is negligable. (I study floor finish scuff tests) Home Depot does not sell a good floor finish, you will only get consumer grade. We need more information to give good advice, a recoat with a good oil base Satin will probably help but anything will scratch. keep the floor clean is most important. The best water based polyurethanes are curing fully in 3 days now.
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tweaked wrote:

Who does? Brand?
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BonaKemi, or spelling close, is highly regarded by users.
wrote:

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I don't know who carries in your area, but the best oil is Fabulon PRO series(NOT the consumer grade in hardware stores) Woodline Poly(BonaKemi) would come in second followed by Duraseal(Minwax)
Water base, choose between Basic Coatings Street Shoe or BonaKemi Traffic. All good water based use a cross-linker that must be handles with care.
It is imperative you use a finish designed for floors.
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tweaked wrote:

Thanks, much appreciated.
-- dadiOH _____________________________
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Tweaked you are full of baloney, what gives a satin finish softens finish and makes it less transparent . Its a fact . Did you ever see a basketball court in satin, you wont.
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m Ransley wrote:

I think his key word was "negligible". The normal flatting material is talc and it is true that it is quite soft as minerals go. However, the mineral grains are encapsulated in the resin.
As far as transparency, a thick layer of flatted varnish/lacquer/whatever would indeed be less clear than an unflatted layer of equal thickness but even half a dozen coats leaves a dried film that is very thin. I, for one, can see no difference.
Personally, I think that very few things - including floors - look good with a high gloss surface. Yes, high gloss can be rubbed out. I might do that for a table top but no way would I ever do it for a floor. And yes, I know one can use a non-glossy coat only as the final coat but that involves buying two types.
Que viva semi-gloss! :)
-- dadiOH _____________________________
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (m Ransley) wrote in 3137.bay.webtv.net:

I never said anything about tranparency and gym floors has nothing to do with anything. The gloss thing is a MYTH not worth wasting time over. Study the manufacturers technical data. I do usually use gloss under a final coat of satin because, like you say, several coats of satin is not as clear. There are times though when I want to hide something and its satin all the way. Few people would ever notice.
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