Recommend screw extractors that work?

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You mean grind............How do you grind a 1/4x20 tap a 1/2 inch long in a hole with a Dremel without grinding the bores threads off. You must have a lot of time and an extremely steady/accurate hand.
Additionally how do you get the center of the abrasive tip to grind when you plunge, seeing how it's surface speed is minimal.
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This guy is so full of crap, I hadda defrag my HDD!
nb
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On 6/5/2010 7:22 AM, snipped-for-privacy@mucks.net wrote:

You pretend to be a dentist. *snicker*
TDD
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On Fri, 04 Jun 2010 21:36:06 -0700, Smitty Two

You have to be kidding. Have you ever even set foot into a machine shop?
Videos are cheap to make and post. Show me a tap that you can drill out. Then mill one out. This should be easy for you. You have said you've done it many times.
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First there is no doubt that carbide can cut hardened steel however carbide made for steel is extremely brittle. The intermittent cuts that would take place for 90% of all broken taps would make it a bad and expensive choice.
Second, nice try at deflecting your response to the OPs question
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wrote:

You can drill high speed steel with a solid carbide bit available at any good machine shop supply.
They are very pricey however and also very fragile. You also can get high speed steel bits that have carbide tips brazed on. Those tend tobreak also but it is easier to extract the broken bits of carbide rather than having a big chunk of broken drill in a broken tap.
--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
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Outstanding!
I would only add that the purpose of the center punch will prevent a drill bit from dancing around. The punch prevents this problem.
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I learned my lesson after a couple of attempts. If this is on an important part, I drop it off at a machine shop and pay a pro to do it. Sounds like others may have had better luck.
On the welding group, several people have reported success welding a washer to the end of the screw and then welding a nut to the washer. Probably easier with larger bolts and may require more welding skill than I have. I'll have to try it some day though.
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Larry Fishel wrote:

I have a little mig welder at home and we have a couple at work. I always use this method and it has never failed. I just build up the broken bolt a little at a time. Bzzt, bzzt, bzzt... Either grab the nub with vice grips or weld a nut over it. It might take a few tries. And not too hot-- don't want too much penetration as to weld the bolt completely over! I used to do this all the time in an automotive machine shop.
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On 06/05/2010 05:11 PM, Fishface wrote:

That works, but I've found that if someone used a crappy, low-quality bolt, that it's damn near impossible to get weld to stick to it. Fortunately, those are the same bolts that are easiest to drill out.
nate
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On 6/3/2010 5:44 AM, bobmct wrote:

The best screw extractors I've ever used were of the type shown in the link below. The type is available from several manufacturers with different brand names but they're all virtually identical.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc4651.html
TDD
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Are you referring to a machine screw or a wood screw??
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I have an extractor set that came with left handed bits. 90% 0f the time I dont have the use the extractors the bolt comes out while drilling.
Jimmie
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