Recharging car battery

Page 5 of 6  
On 7/2/14, 9:27 PM, micky wrote:

An ideal battery would stay at the same voltage. I guess the open-circuit voltage drops a little because the chemistry isn't as simple as the theory. The voltage under a load is likely to drop more because internal resistance is likely to increase as the charge decreases.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 7/2/2014 9:27 PM, micky wrote:

Some years ago I had a car with a weak battery. It would crank but not start. It did not have enough power do turn the starter motor and feed the coil for ignition. If you let go of the key at the right time, momentum gave you the last little crank and the ignition would fire a plug and the car would start.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

It's amazing but they still make cars without that. Kmart used to sell and attachment for 2 or 3 dollars that only required 2 connections.
I don't think Kmart has it in the store, but googling in general should find one, probalby 10 dollars now.
I also recommend Priority Start and Battery Brain, which disconnect the battery when its voltage gets too low.
I had Battery Buddy for 20 years and it never failed to work, so I always could start the car, But they don't sell that anymore.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 07:42:09 -0400, Stormin Mormon

At least a partial remedy for that AIUI is not to recharge ti too quickly. So I'll put the heater fan on high and the headliights on to lower the charge rate. When I had an ammeter in the dash, I could see that the rate was low.
So,

I used to charge my battery with a 1amp charger and it might take 2 days, 1 day just to put in enough to start the car, especially a 6 volt car. But I found on a sidewalk a 14-amp charger, and I've become a wastrel, so I charge it with that and the car is ready to start in 5 minutes. Positive to positive, negative to negative, red is positive, black is negative**. Plus embossed on the battery somewhere near the batttery posts, it says Pos and Neg. {Plus the cable that goes to the engine block is negative, but one can sometimes make a mistake following the cable along. ** (unlike house current where black is hot and white is neutral.)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

did you remember how?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I've only replaced one alternator in 46 years and that one failed while the car was in a storage garage for 5 months (I'll never get to the bottom of that one.) And at least twice I've ruined my battery and I'll still go for 6 months or a year with the bad battery. Right now, the battery is ruined because the fob receiver was bad and kept draining my battery. Now the battery is so bad I can only play the radio for two minute before my Priority Start disconnnects it. After I use something electric in the car, like an interior ligh tor the brake lights, Priority Start resets in 5 or 10 seconds. and the car starts right up.
Another time I kept draining the battery because I had two burglar alarms installed at the same time. I thought the second one was an accessory that would beep me when the first went off, but it turned out that the second one used current all the time.

The brushes wore out on my 15-year old Lebaron convetible, and I thought I found replacments. But when I took the motor apart, the brushes fit but the woven copper leads on the replacement (from a hardware store) were much thinner than the original.
So I wadded up some aluminum foil and put it behind the brushes to push them further down the holder than the springs alone did. Wored fine for another 2 years, until the engine failed.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 07/02/2014 09:07 PM, micky wrote: X
<snip> > The brushes wore out on my 15-year old Lebaron convetible, and I thought

BTW: for those who have older cars there actually *is* a safety feature that warns you if you have left the light switch in on "on" position.
If you look at the front of the car there are two bright warning lights to alert you! At the back of there car there are also two warning lights they are a bit smaller though.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

What a great idea.
In 1958, I had a '50 Olds, that was 6V of course. It had a place on the other side for a second battery but I never thought about that.
But during the Chicago winter, I ran a long extension cord from the pantry window and every time I came home, I'd plug the 1amp battery charger into the cord. The charger itself was in the car somewher, with it's cord coming out the grill.
I kept it on 12votls and charged the car alll winter. It started every time except new years eve when it was about 0 degrees out. I called a tow and even he couldn't start the car that night.
The charger (I still have it but had to replace the selenium diodes) had a circuit breaker than looks like a long neon bulb (1/2 inch) and would trip every 30 seconds or so and reset 10 seconds later. I think that means about 15,000 times a week for 16 weeks or so, 240,000 times and it hasn't failed yet.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 7/2/14, 10:22 PM, micky wrote:

A battery used around town in winter is likely to benefit from extra charging because a cold battery doesn't charge very fast, and on short trips with a generator that didn't work at an idle, the car might not charge the battery long at all. Charging all night would also keep the electrolyte stirred up and ready to go.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Only on SOME vehicles. Others require the battery in order for the alternator to charge, and others will damage the alternator and or regulator if run "open circuit".
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I left out two words. convertible top motor.

Thanks. I'll have to check. .
The biggest problem is in the rain, in the daytime when the lights have to be on so the car will be seen by other drivers, but they're not bright enough to be noticed when leaving the car.
My Toyota, which I don't like, has headlights on, partially lit maybe, whenever the car is running and turns off all the exterior lights whenever it's not. Normally that's fine, but I keep forgetting how to a) run the engine with the headlights off (like when I'm spying on my girlfriend on a cold night) or b) not run the engine but keep the headlights on. I think to do the first, a, I just have to set the parking brake (logical but I would never have thought of it). As to b, I was told how to do it, but I've forgotten.
Also the car beeps loudly if I open the door with the engine off and the key in the ignition. And won't stop. I had to disconnect the key-in switch to stop it. A lot of people would have to pay someone to do that, or wouldn't think of it at all. Some cars had 3 door switches, one for each function, so I could have just disconnected the door-open switch that related to this beeping, but they're so "clever" they use only one switch, and that just makes it harder for me.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 07/03/2014 11:02 AM, micky wrote:

I sure hope you got the joke???
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 02 Jul 2014 23:16:21 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Thanks. I'm going back to American cars next time, where the chances are higher they will work like how I thinik they do. Not that I've ever wanted to remove the battery and run without it. And not that I've ever wanted to drive around without stopping and turning off the engine. I can't imagine that.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Too complicated now for me, but let me just go back to my real-life expericene
I've had batteries so dead the relay didn't even click, and 10 minutes on a 15 amp charger is enough to get the car started. Even a V-8 with 455 cid.
The biggest problem was that, knowing how quickly the car might be ready to start, I'd try after 4 minutes and maybe drain out everything I'd put in. Then I'd try again 6 minutes later, and maybe again, so I'd lengthen the time it took by 10 or 15 minutes. As I'm gettting later and later for work. But times when I could control myself for iirc 10 minutes in a row, the car woudl start. It couldn't have been fully charged so quickly and I guess if it were totally dead, the lead plates inside would be all dissooved.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 7/3/14, 12:17 PM, micky wrote:

You start with a plate of lead and a plate of lead oxide and sulfuric acid between. If electricity is allowed to flow in a wire from the lead plate to the lead oxide plate, hydrogen ions will flow through the electrolyte from the lead plate to the lead oxide plate, and both plates will get coated with lead sulfate.
As the battery runs down, the acid gets more dilute, and the lead sulfate gets thicker. At some point, everything will get too slow to start a car. If it's badly run down, charging will be slow at first. When the acid gets stronger and the lead sulfate gets thinner, you can start your car.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes, I should have thought of this. I just use each hand to hold one cable, but yours might be better. Doesn't take long to get a jump.
Even if the cables won't reach, HB can hold them and hope the car that stops will do what it takes to make them reach, maybe turn around and go hood to hood with the car if necessary. He might have longer cables.
I finally got tired of this and got 16' heavy gauge cables so that's no longer a problem.
Sometimes the car will crank fully and start immediately when getting a jump. Other times, especially with V-8's one might have to spend 5 minutes charging the dead car's battery .
IF HB is female, should be even easier to get a jump but once when I was a 50 year old man, a pretty black girl in her 20's gave me a jump. I was imprssed. So many women are scared like rabbits** or selfish, not sure which it is. . Is it my imagination that women don't wave their hand in thanks as often as men do when another car stops to leave room so their car can get out of a parking lot into a crowded street, or turn left through stopped traffic. Or are they too stupid too know the rules?, Or they know the rules and they're rude? Or is it my imagination or sample size to begin with?
**Even on a street with traffic and pedestrians. On a few occasions I've asked for food advice in the supermarket. Some women are happy to give advice, and then they move on. Others refuse to even answer, as if I'm about to rape them. On at least one occasion, she was so bad looking I wouldn't want her if she begged me, but even though she was dressed normally she wouldn't answer my questoin about a watermelon.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 00:00:03 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson

My webbrowser is bogged down today, so so far I haven't actually found a headlights-on buzzer for sale, but there are sure lots of instruction on how to install, and probably how to make or buy one.
https://www.google.com/search?num 0&site=&source=hp&q=headlights+on+buzzer&btnG=Search
This guy http://www.craigscobras.com/tips/lightbuzzer/intex.htm suggests buying a buzzer from Radio Shack
Another guy says specifically (got mine at Ratshack for $10.99. Item #273-071)
and he or other pages show where to connect the thing. Only two wires. You don't need special ends, you can just stuff the copper strands in between a fuse and the fuse holder. But you need to know which fuse. where
He says red wire to parking lights, black wire to fuel pump connector. Because when the parking lights are on and the fuel pump is off, tht means the car's not running but the lights are on.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Most north american cars will not run without the battery and are more complex than the Japs.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Hi, Forget the idea of running car w/o battery connected unless you want to blow all the electronics parts toasted. Air bag pops, alarm goes crazy, etc., etc. Or you have to drive very old car, like 40 year old. I never own a car more than 10 YO. When I was working, my company car was replaced every 3 years or so.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes, I did. My reply was a joke, too.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.