Range clock - Disconnect it!

David Nebenzahl wrote

disconnecting it to save electricity (an

Nope, you are.

You're no friend of mine.

disconnecting a clock?"

Nope. I rubbed your nose in the FACT that with the RANGE being discussed, the use of electricity by the clock is such a trivial part of what the rest of the RANGE uses that it isnt worth bothering about unless you are a mindless anal obsessive.

So it isnt worth bothering about disconnecting THE CLOCK IN THE RANGE which happened to be what the OP was stupid enough to bother about.

clocks, wall warts, etc., plugged in out

Pity that hardly anyone is actually stupid enough to bother to disconnect the clocks in many of the RANGES out there.

And if you care about what a wall wart uses, the only thing that makes any sense at all is to replace the ones that are the dinosaur transformer based wall warts with proper modern switch mode wall warts instead and save virtually all of the power those use, and have the convenience of being able to leave them plugged in all the time.

Reply to
Rod Speed
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On 6/1/2008 3:53 PM Tony Hwang spake thus:

So far as that goes, keep in mind that as the voltage increases, the size of the conductors needed to carry the electricity decreases (that's one reason long-distance transmission lines are HV). So you can either increase the size of the conductors, or step the voltage up using existing conductors.

Reply to
David Nebenzahl

On 6/1/2008 5:23 PM Rod Speed spake thus:

Well, yes, that would be an improvement.

Reply to
David Nebenzahl

What convenience? I can think of very few things you'd cook in an oven that could sit un-refrigerated half the day before the oven turned on, and not give you food poisoning. Timed start is a feature looking for a problem, timed shut off does have some utility however.

Reply to
Pete C.

I think if we all disconnected all the lights we have that run 24/7 and all these little clocks that we could make as much difference as AlGore does with his global warming theories. If anyone is concerned about how much electricity their clock uses, contact me, and I will send you a quarter for a year's usage.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

If nothing else, I use the timer for the self-cleaning cycle. And before someone starts telling me how much electricity the cycle uses, it's a lot cheaper than a container of oven cleaner. And old-fashioned household "tips" like leaving a pan of ammonia in the oven overnight don't work - I've tried that sort of thing. Not to mention how much easier it is to set it and forget it than it is to clean the oven by hand.

Reply to
Lou

... keeping in mind that the insulators will also need to be up to the task presented by the increased voltage. :-)

Reply to
CJT

In the 21 years we had our old oven we never used the timed start. I don't remember if the one before that had that feature or not. Never had the need. One of my criteria for our new range was minimal electronics. Don't need them, don't want them. I expect the Bertazzoni will last 50 years with maybe an igniter of the convection fan needing replacement in that time. That's OK though as I'm not going to last another 50 years.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

One suggestion made earlier in this group was to plug your charging devices into a power strip that has an on/off switch. (forget about the fact that the plugs are not designed to only take up one outlet space)

Every little bit does help, and it is the right thing to do.

I don't really think Al Gore is doing his part, but that is another story. :)

Reply to
metspitzer

Black and SS. They have 7 other colors too. The paint is applied at the same place that Lamborghinis and Ferraris are painted. Same quality too.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

You never met my grandson

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

Well Edison wanted to transmit at the the same voltage it was going to be used at. AC made it possible to transform to a higher voltage, and less loss because there is less i^2 * r loss (double voltage = half current for same power) I think Tesla would approve of the current generation HVDC lines, remember the end distribution is still AC.

I'm sure there's a good bit on the net.

I'm curious. And, in a nutshell, why

Advances in semiconductors and circuit breakers made HVDC possible.

You have a higher peak voltage with AC, so you will have more corona loss. For underground cable, you'll have much less capacitive loss.

For long lines HVDC has a lot of advantages. Higher capacity, lower losses and a smaller footprint because you have less lines.

Also, it makes it easier to sync power grids as the different power generators don't all have to be in the same phase. That can be a big issue and is why restarting a down generator or grid can take a long time.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff

So now you can't use the oven timer, right?

Reply to
Samantha Hill - remove TRASH t

All of these consume mostly 1-2 watts apiece. Electric clocks usually consume about 2 watts.

Many but far from all wallwarts have losses more like 3, a few times 4 watts when fully loaded. Ones dissipating that much power get very warm.

Switcher type cell phone chargers tend to have losses around or under a watt, usually well under a watt once the battery is charged.

As for power consumption of an LED in an AC-powered device, including related power dissipations and losses in associated circuitry and the power supply circuitry: Often anywhere from .05 to .4 watt. This is usually .05 to .2 watt per LED in decices that have more of them. These figures can easily be reduced by at least 75% using modern higher efficiency LEDs, which are still usually not used for indicator lights because they cost a few cents more than ones of technology that was standard in the early 1980's.

Clock radios tend to consume anywhere from 1 to 4 watts apiece. Clock displays on microwave ovens and VCRs tend to consume about half a watt to a watt, give or take depending on the technology used.

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Now, for appliances that constantly consume a little power when they are "off":

The converter box that I just got for my older tech TV consumes less than a watt when it is "off", but it is consuming some power to run a red LED and to be receptive to the remote to turn it "on". I just measured my TV as drawing 12 watts when "off", according to my "Kill-A-Watt" watt-meter, which actually measures true power consumption as opposed to "reactive" and "harmonic", even for electronic-ballasted CFLs. At my electricity rate, the off-time for my TV costs me about $13 per year! I oughtta get a power strip with a switch for it and the converter box!

My desktop computer's ATX power supply is not fully "off" when "shut down" by any means other than turning off the switch on the back of the power supply or disconnecting it from AC power. The motherboard has an LED that glows whenever the power supply is receiving power, and I hear a very brief high piched squeal of the power supply's switching frequency becoming audible whenever I do what it takes to make that motherboard LED go out. I now have my desktop on a power strip with a switch to make it fully "off" when I want it "off". At least some printers also consume a little power when "off". Supposedly, some of those perform a cleaning operation (with some ink consumption) when power is applied/restored.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

Reply to
Don Klipstein

That is changing, especially notably with cell phone chargers. Notably, the slim cell phone chargers have switchmode circuitry. The smallest 60 Hz iron core transformers I have seen that can put out a couple watts won't fit in those.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

Reply to
Don Klipstein

In , Jeff Wisnia wrote in part:

If the pilot lamp is a neon lamp of C2A/NE-2H or A1C or similar type, the power consumption of the neon lamp and its associated dropping resistor (for 120 volts AC) is usually around 1/3 watt.

I don't remember too clearly what I found in terms of current and power numbers for one with an LED pilot lamp, though I do think that .4 watt sounds about right. This can be halved with noticeably increased LED light output if an LED costing a few cents more and much more efficient is used.

It appears to me that the USA national average is about 11 cents per KWH, maybe now closer to 12, and at least will be 12 soon.

1/3 watt at 12 cents per KWH for 1 year costs about 35 cents per year.

An InGaN green LED that gets plenty bright at half a milliamp (.06 watt at 120 VAC including dropping resistor losses), plus dropping resistor and bridge rectifier, in production quantities may cost 15 cents more than the neon lamp. Add some more for likely a little circuit board and assembly. I guess the retail cost goes up a couple bucks, maybe just one buck should they sell by millions, to save about 30 cents a year (plus however electricity rates inflate in the future).

I would buy them at that rate. Sadly, too many people won't even spend extra up front two years' worth of electricity savings for a more efficient model when shopping for refrigerators!

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

Reply to
Don Klipstein

Happy for them, I guess...never make it here, though... :)

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Reply to
dpb

Lou wrote: ...

Since I was the one who pointed it out, don't have any statistic on either numbers of people who do use it or an extensive list of all the possible uses, but certainly it gets used for things like starting the roast for Sunday dinner, etc., quite frequently.

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Reply to
dpb

Different strokes...that's why they make more than one.

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Reply to
dpb

Very nice. How/why did you decide on this instead of Blue Star, Viking, or Wolf? FYI, my sister selected Wolf because she felt it would be easier to clean than Viking (don't think she looked at Blue Star).

Reply to
KLS

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