Radon

Thanks for the replys, I was able to find the information that I needed. I don't know what happened when I googled, maybe I chose the wrong search terms.
We decided to re parge (sp) the walls and then use the radon seal/ WE have a stone foundation that was mortaredwith mud and horsehair and then parged with the same mud and horsehair which is now flaking off. Should I reparge or should I just remove what is flaking off then use the radon seal.? At one time there seemed to have been a root cellar in the basement, just an opening in the stone (like a doorway) and a room of dirt about 4 X 4. I started blocking it up and have filled in the "room" with rocks and dirt.
Thanks for the info....
Now it seems the stove is going up, my wife got electricuted (minor no injury, but she said it jerked her arm and jaw.) I put a meter to it and it was throwing a current from the burner plate to the oven door handle @ 109 vac.
Guess, we start cooking on the grill. Oh the joys of home ownership. Our first house looks like its not going to be our last!
SD
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Has anyone ever treated their basement for RADON? Has anyone experience or recommendation about this company and product: http://www.radonloc.com/index.html this appeals to me because obviously there wont be that fan running 24 hours a day, and it claims to solve the problem.
Thanks, Fish
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I have a mitigation system, fan and piping under slab. I also have a device that measures the air pressure difference to tell me the system is functional. Now, the piping was installed, just in case, during construction. After construction a test was done. When radon levels were detected all we needed to do was add the fan and the gauge. The fan is in the attic, piping runs to below slab. I cant hear the fan, I do not even know the system is running. I have no idea how much it costs to operate. Cant be too much.
I would say this, its my opinion, that if you have an older house to not to worry about radon. The houses are so leaky that the radon will dissipate on its own anyway. If you have a new airtight home then it could be some cause for concern although that is debated by some as well.

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Read the topic "Radon - is it really a problem?" in this newsgroup. I posted several suggestions in that thread, under a different name. One main entry point for radon is the gap between the floor and the wall; the floor is poured close to the end of construction, and technically independent of the walls. You will have to seal all the way around the edge with a polyurathane caulk. The EPA has a whole series of books available on the topic (not sure if they still do). I read them all. Their conclusion is that the only system that is effective is a SSD (sub-slab depressurization) system. YMMV
fish wrote:

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What do you think of the caulk sold on this website, would you use it? Where could I get the caulk you are recommending?
THanks, Fish
On 9 Jun 2005 05:57:57 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

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sounds like the same as dry loc paint
Mark
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