Questions about programmable switches

Page 3 of 3  
On Monday, December 9, 2013 3:08:40 PM UTC-5, Jennifer Murphy wrote:

Nope, the neutral can come from the outlet since it's the same circuit.
You could also run power from a closer source if you have an outlet closer to the switch. Run a new piece of 14/2 power from a nearby outlet to the s witch box. Then use the existing 14/2 line that is already going to the sw itched outlet as new switched power to it. Disconnect and cut back the ori ginal power line in the switched outlet but leave the end in the box.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 9 Dec 2013 13:59:32 -0800 (PST), jamesgang

There is an outlet about 3 feet away on the other side of the wall, but it's on a different circuit breaker. In any case, me trying to follow those instructions would be a surefire recipe for setting either my hair of the house on fire. I'll stick with the 550 switch that doesn't require a neutral and remember to keep anyone from plugging in a compressor. If I need the other switch, I'll hire an electrician.
Thanks for the help.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Jennifer Murphy wrote:

How about a - programmable plug in light switch - ? Place the above between the dashes into Google search.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/9/2013 3:08 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:

I'm also not great at pulling wires. However, I think you'll find one of the cloth wraps is hot, the other is neutral. Least, that's what I've always found.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/9/2013 1:34 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

So the programmable switch uses the load as a neutral for the timer circuit? That's interesting.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I put a quote mark around the 'fake neutral' to try and indicate it is not a true neutral. The hot wire with 120 volts on it goes to the switch. The wire leaving the switch goes through the load and back to the neutral. That is the reason for the minimum load. With no load , there is no return for the power and the switch will not work.
When the load is powered up there are a couple of volts dropped across the switch to keep it powered up.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/9/2013 8:58 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

related to DC? You look great in that insulation. Black is really your color. You're hot. Love the way you keep your split ends under a wire nut like that. Millie Amp says hi. She's got great potential. You do know that Edison and I were best friends?"
--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Intermatic makes a few in-wall timers that don't need a neutral and can switch up to 15 amps tungsten. I think these also have no minimum load. Looking at their Web site, the EI600 or ST01 may do what you want. http://intermatic.com/en/Products/Timers/InWallTimers/Electronic_Timers.aspx
These tend to have batteries in them, which is why they can work without a netural - they don't need to draw power through the load. I had an older model Intermatic (circa 2000) that needed one AAA battery; a fresh alkaline would last about a year. The newer ones may have rechargeables.
I bought the one I had at either Lowe's or Home Depot.
Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration from any companies mentioned.
Matt Roberds
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 9 Dec 2013 22:04:44 +0000 (UTC), snipped-for-privacy@att.net wrote:

Thanks for that link. There are 4 that support sunset/sunrise programmability. They all have batteries, I think, and one has a rechargeable.
These look similar to the old Aube Ti034, which is the one I had that got cooked. I think the new Honeywell 550A has a much nicer UI. There's no flip up cover. Just a display and three buttons: left, right, and select. The left/right buttons display the sunset/sunrise times for today when not in menu mode.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.