Question about buying a multimeter

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I've fried several Fluke fuses, at about $12 a pop (yes, they do pop when they blow). Finally decided to use my $4 HF meter whenever possible. At least their pops are cheaper.
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Christopher A. Young
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

If you are measuring on circuits with high available current you might appreciate the Fluke fuse. Particularly on a residential service and many commercial/industrial locations you want a meter that is "category" rated for the hazard of the location. Fluke will be rated (may not all be rated for the most severe). I wouldn't bet HF is. You could wind up wearing the meter. Fortunately that is not much of a hazard in a house except the service panel. If you are using a meter for work it could be an OSHA issue.
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I suspect the HF meters also have fuses. What irritates me, is that the fuses are twelve bucks each. I can buy the glass car fuses for under a buck each, and the plastic push in fuses, also under a buck. However, with the Fluke meter, only a Fluke fuse will fit.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Having a fuse does not mean the meter won't explode on a high capacity circuit.
Glass fuses used in a car are probably rated 32V. The same size ceramic body fuses might be rated up to 250V. None of them have an adequate current interrupt capacity (for a short circuit). Buss FRN fuses are rated for circuits with a source current capacity of 200,000A. That is different from the fuse current rating, which might only be 20A. The source current capacity ("available fault current") for a house is probably 5,000-10,000A.
Fluke fuses are high interrupt capacity.
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I just opened up my HF DMM(no-backlight model),and it has a 5x20mm fuse.
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Jim Yanik
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On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 10:32:59 -0700 (PDT), svu geek

k stands for 1000 M stands for 1,000,000
For 2M (or 2 million), set the dial to 10M (or slightly higher). With a digital readout, all you are doing is moving the decimal point. I bought a Radio Shack multimeter 25 years ago, still going strong.
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