Chris Lewis wrote: ....
Aside from the tests already mentioned, you can drop a lit match on Silestone, let it burn, and it won't hurt the countertop at all. All you have to do is wipe off combustion residue from the match.
According to Nexus7 :
Hardness isn't really an issue. Heat resistance is.
According to my research, epoxy-bonded silestone (and Zodiaq) are relatively heat resistant - better than corian or plastic laminate - but the epoxies will burn or discolor if hot enough.
However, I get the impression that silestone and zodiaq are repairable to a certain extent, and we don't put hot pots on counters anyway.
Yes, I've seen test results that show no effect of placing lit cigarettes on these engineered countertops, vs staining for granite. These are on manufacturer sites, so take it FWIW.
Actually, I've done this myself many times. I don't have to take the manufacturer's word for it. It's no problem.
Yep....words to live by :)
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What is the lemon test? Also, how different is a sample from the actual slab of granite? I've heard of people going to the quarry and picking their own slab which is why I ask this.
Eddie
Um, if you were keeping up with this thread, you'd see that I did test it with extremely hot pans. (Again, no problem)
The heat-resistance specification for silestone is as follows:
"Silestone is heat resistant up to 200°C. It is recommended for use in splashbacks and around stove tops. It is NOT, however recommended that hot pans or pots be placed directly on the Silestone surface."
FWIW, that translates to around 400°F.
You think this is an adequate simulation of placing a 500F+ pot on it?
It isn't.
Epoxy isn't heat proof. In fact, most break down well below 500F.
The amount of heat that a lit match produces could well be adequately dissipated by the quartz to keep the binder below breakdown temperature. But I certainly expect that not to be true with something considerably larger.
The "lemon juice test" is dripping a few drops (or more than a few drops) on the sample. If it quickly develops dark spots under the drops, it's very absorbent, and probably unsuitable for a kitchen countertop. If it takes a minute or more to be absorbed, then you can probably make it work with a decent sealer / impregnator. If it isn't absorbed at all, then you're golden. This is all stolen heavily from
Samples should be from the same vein (and preferably the same slab) as what you're going to be using, but it's going to depend on the supplier.
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