punching bag

A lot of hits if you google this, but a serious lack of detail.

Any reason why you couldn't hang a 100+ lb punching bag from a 2x8 rafter? I can see it holding the weight as a static load no problem, but wobbling around and such as it's hit might change things.

Reply to
Eigenvector
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Hi, My kid uses a free standing one on the floor. He does kick boxing/Jujitsu.

Reply to
Tony Hwang

Why chance it. If the ceiling is open I would opt to bridge to the adjacent joists on either side with some 2x8 stubs to distribute the weight and add stability as well.

Reply to
C & E

Agree w/ the cross bracing, altho there are better and worser ways to do this.

If you have access to the joists, get a piece of 3/4 ply, or some 2x4s and attach to the *top* of the joists, and hang the bag from the middle of this piece of added wood. This way you need relatively small screws, with minimal penetration to the joists. This will distribute the load AND stabilize each joist.

Most important is hanging the bag from a suitable spring. Weider, Everlast et al should have these springs, or you can improvise, actually tailoring heavy duty springs by putting them in series/parallel. The total extension of the springs, about 6-8" long, should be about 2" or so, to reduce the percussive load on the joists.

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message news:R3Jdi.53$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe12.lga...

That's a pretty damn good idea. I have plenty of left over plywood from the basement floor removal so doing something like that will be a snap.

Reply to
Eigenvector

Have fun!

Don't forget the springs. Altho the joists are likely not to be in mortal danger from springless-ness, you might induce wall/ceiling cracks from this kind of percussive load.

Along those lines, consider matting/padding on the attic floor, to dampen the percussive loads of all the inevitable jumping around. Sam's/Costco have a kind of rubber-interlocking colored matting, relatively cheap, altho I think multiple layers of thick-pile carpeting would do well also.

Another and perhaps better strategy is to take plywood/floorboards raised up on 2x4s (wide-side down, if you prefer), but deliberately spaced wide so that the wood has some spring to it.

An even more elegant strategy, and not that complicated, is to create a "floating floor", with supporting 2x4s (mini floor joists, if you will, traditionally spaced) mounted on die springs. Then carpet this. Splinters, donchaknow.... :)

I use a variant of this system for weight lifting, for shock absorption of the lowered bar/weights. *Very* effective, perty elegant. The 2x4s would actually be drilled to accept the die springs. Easy to do. Die springs for this application would run between $3 and $5 each, you might need about 4-8, depending on the area around the bag.

Unfortunately, some experimentation w/ spring length and stiffness will likely be required. Most likely the springs I use for my weight ditty would not be optimal for your floor, but they would still work.

Some hardware stores (mebbe even goddamm HD) have a nice selection "stock springs", some of which are pretty heavy duty, and might suffice for this application. You're looking at springs approx. 1" in diam, 2-4" long, with a wire size of about 1/8"--perty thick, for spring wire. If you decide to go this route, I can help you experimentally determine the working spring size,without it costing you a fortune. And, a nice hardware guy would let you return the springs you don't use, if you tell him up front what you're trying to do. Which is perhaps the only redeeming thing about goddamm HD, returning crap w/ impunity. :)

Other substitutes exist: urethane springs/pads, HVAC isolation pads, often made out of rubber/cork, etc.

Much more than you wanted to know, I'm sure. :)

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

I was thinking the same thing, but I have 2x10's. I came to the conclusion when I install one, I will put bridging around it.

tom @

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Reply to
Just Joshin

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