Pump motor starts and stops


My sprinkler system pump starts, runs for 2 or 3 seconds then stops.I have the Irritrol RD600 controller. Had the pump motor checked and it's fine. Is the problem in the starter relay or the controller? On auto or manual it doesn't make any difference. Also 2 of the 6 zone solenoids buzz when I try to start the pump. Any ideas please?
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------------------------------------- Steven C. Mattson _ _ _ _ | |_ | |__ (_) ___ (_) ___ _ __ ___ _ _ | __|| '_ \ | |/ __| | |/ __| | '_ ` _ \ | | | | | |_ | | | || |\__ \ | |\__ \ | | | | |
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On May 15, 2:20 pm, scmatts03_at_bresnan_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (scmatts03) wrote:

Get out your $6 Harbor Freight ohmmeter and start checking voltages at input and output. When you find the place where output doesn't equal input you found the problem. Tighten screws, rework connections until voltages are normal and your system will start working again. Buzzing solenoids often mean low voltage. That's a clue. Worst case would be spooky electronics , leaving no alternative but to call a pro.
Joe
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scmatts03 wrote:

Is it pumping water?
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Do you have a multimeter?
If yes:
Check the fuse (most likely not the problem, but get it out of the way).
Open the controller and gain access to the terminal strip. Find the "VC" terminal and the "MV/Pump" terminal (while here, check the voltage across the 24 VAC terminals (two, upper right terminals next to "VC") If not around 24 Vac then the transformer might be the culprit).
Manually activate the controller and measure the voltage between the two terminals listed above. Should be around 24 Vac. Cycle the controller off and remove the wire from "MV/Pump", then cycle the controller back on. The voltage should remain the same.
If there is not any voltage across the terminals, ever, and there is voltage across the 24 VAC terminals, and the fuse is good, I'd say the controller has an issue.
If there is voltage across the VC - MV/Pump terminals, I'd suspect the wiring or the pump relay.
Hmmm...
You stated that two of the solenoids made noise while the controller was activated. Disconnect one of the noisy ones. Cycle the controller to verify that the noisy solenoid is still being noisy. Now, disconnect that solenoid and terminate it onto the MV/Pump terminal (disconnect the existing wire) and cycle the controller on. If that solenoid then makes "noise", you will know that the controller is cycling the MV/Pump circuit.
Technically you should be able to terminate the wire for the pump relay onto one of the solenoid terminals and it will operate the pump relay without an issue, for testing. If the pump does operate while doing this, then you will know for certain that it is the MV/Pump circuit that is at fault.
It is possible to bypass the MV/Pump circuit if you want to give up one of the zones, and have that zone operate with the other zones (always on with whichever zone is in use).
Though, replacement or fixing the circuit is the best option.
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scmatts03_at_bresnan_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (scmatts03) wrote in

See if something is blocking the flow of the pump. I had a sump pump that had a backflow valve that failed which caused the pump to act much like yours. Disconnected the pump from plumbing and it ran fine. Then figured out it was the backflow was seized.
I'm not sure what kind of plumbing is hooked up to the pump for a sprinkler but I'm guessing something is not allowing proper flow.
Larry
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