PT pine shrinkage versus smooth sided cedar?

Page 2 of 2  



I'm the OP.
I had eliminated the composite stuff because I read a lot of reviews complaining of mold that would keep coming back, even after repeated bleaching. I also read about other problems like flaking - for the price, I'd expect zero maintenance.
Maybe I should reconsider the composite - does anyone know what that composite is that they use for the beach benches in Florida - seems like if it'd last there, it'd be OK anywhere.
Suggestions??
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
writes:

Mold? No more than any other material. Since there's nothing for mold to feed on, I'd say less mold. Not that mold on a deck should be an issue. I guess it depends on the amount of light you get.
Flaking? Never heard of it, and I haven't seen it in the 13 years my deck has been in place.
Other than cleaning, (if you feel the need), there is no maintenance.
Reminds me, Sandy broke one of my deck boards. I need to replace one.
Other than breakage, it looks to me like the deck will easily outlast me and I've still got a few years to go.
--
Dan Espen

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I'm considering composite to replace the boards on my deck (they'll probably go another five years but look ugly). I'm told you can't pressure wash them and there are issues with sagging. You're happy with yours? I've never been a fan of PT decking.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 05 May 2013 19:17:02 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

I considered it but went with Tiger Wood instead. In fact, I put a coat of oil on it today to keep it looking good. http://www.advantagelumber.com/tigerwood_decking.htm
Not cheap, but will outlast me even if I live to be 100.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Interesting. It's not all that outrageous, as long as it lasts. How do you fasten it? It might be worthwhile doing the Kreg thing. Is there any other maintenance needed?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 05 May 2013 23:31:03 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

For most, I used the ipe clips that go into the grooves. I had problems getting some aligned and used the stainless steel screw that leave a very small hole for the head, barely noticeable.
My deck is 12 x 16 so it used 25 boards. They were oversized an inch so had to be trimmed. The extra inch was there in case of handling dings.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Trim head screws? Do they hold well enough to keep the boards from warping? The Kreg system looks pretty good, too, but if the slot is there, might as well use it. No issues with another surface for water penetration?

Inch long, I presume. For the 6" (5-1/2") boards it's a bit over $4/sq ft., so it really isn't out of range, assuming it really does last as advertised.
It really does look nice. I made the mistake of sending the link to SWMBO.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 07 May 2013 18:36:29 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

Been down for a year now. No cupping, warping, or anything else. I used the screw that came with the clips. If you do go that way, I have nearly a full box of the kit that I'll sell you very cheap. You need a torx bit for the screws.
You can drill, countersink, then plug the holes but that seems like too much work.

The PT deck was over 20 years and was getting ugly. This looks first class, has nice coloring. If you like the look of wood, it is worth considering.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Good information. No, it'll be at least a couple of years before I replace the deck. We're talking about expanding it across the back of the house but it'll have to wait until the house is paid off.

For the few where space is tight, that's an option. I've also seen fastening systems that come from the bottom. That's a possibility since the deck is ~10' off the ground (no stairs, which is another problem).

Exactly! Our house was built in '07 so the deck still has a way to go before it has to be replaced. I like the tigerwood look. If it's not a huge deal to maintain it looks to me to be the way to go. I'd have to consider options for the railings, though. White paint would look nice but it's a PITA to maintain. I suppose the framing is just PT?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload


What brand is it?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
writes:

Timbertech, but I don't have any basis for recommending one brand over another. They all look pretty good to me.
--
Dan Espen

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 5 May 2013 16:04:55 -0500, "AngryOldWhiteGuy"

support mold or moss. At less than double the cost of cedar I figured it was a pretty decent deal.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.