I'll second that. My mother and grandmother could simply not be
convinced to put their wood-handled tools away after playing in the
garden. Being the dutiful son/grandson, I was always the one who got
tapped to turn the garden beds in the spring. (What's a roto-tiller?).
After about the third time of having the damn shovel handle snap on me,
the lightbulb went off, and I bought them new shovels with fiberglas
All my old man's nagging got to me. Even now, living alone, I can't bear
to NOT rinse the shovels and metal-ended tools off before I put them
away in the shed.
If you cant get the head off the handle, buy a metal wedge almost the
full width of that slot, and drive the metal wedge in where the saw
cut is. You wont be able to use the small metal wedge that came with
it. But I've done it this way and it worked well.
hold the sledge in midair, head down. Heavy hammer and alternating
blows side to side on the sledge head. Ignore all the "don't hammer
on hardened heads". It is 90% BS and 10% wishful thinking.
I missed that. You say the handle fits. DO NOT SKINNY DOWN THE
HANDLE. It will be forever loose if you do. Start the wood wedge in
before insertin the handle in the sledge head. Yes, it works fine in
my over 30 years experience do it. It doesn't take much just far
enought that it doesn't fall out while inserting handle.
A well fitting handle does need to be driven in. I fit them by
shaving down with broken glass. Takes off a few thousandths at a
time, trial fit (drive until it won't go) , remove head, shave a bit
at the marking, repeat until it goes all the way, If you can slip
the handle on without hammering or tapping the handle on something
solid it is too loose.
On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 10:54:29 -0700, Larry Fishel wrote:
Hmmm... maybe I misunderstood.
When I put the handle in the maul hole, it was 'perfect'.
That meant it was EXACTLY the same size.
So, I held the maul handle down over a concrete curb and banged down on
The maul head easily slid down about, oh, an inch or more.
Then I banged harder on the concrete; the maul slid further; but there
was about, oh, say a half inch left between the top of the maul and the
top of the handle.
When I finally banged pretty darn hard, the top of the handle came flush.
At that point, I stopped banging. It was clear to me that if I banged the
handle down further the maul head would slip down further (there is still
an inch or so of handle taper left below the maul, which seems like a
weak point to me).
By that (more detailed) description, would you say that the maul fit or
didn't fit the handle?
On Thu, 21 Jul 2011 14:41:17 -0700, Harry K wrote:
I see that was my main mistake.
I didn't know to put the wood wedge in BEFORE inserting the handle into
And, I couldn't tell which way the maul was up versus down (if there is a
difference, I didn't see it).
So, I guess, my inexperience killed me. It didn't help that there were no
My mistake for not asking BEFORE doing.
Start the wooden wedge in the slot before you put the head on.
Start the head on then vertically bang the handle end on something
solid like a concrete floor until the head seats.
Drive in the wedges.
The 'only' way that was going to happen would have been if I 'rasped' the
handle down smaller ... or ... if the maul truly has a top and a
bottom ... then maybe I put it on upside down (but I sure couldn't tell
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