proper tool for trimming door?

I need to take about a half inch off the bottom of a solid wooden door so it will open over a thick carpet I just purchased. Does it make any difference if I do this with a circular saw or planer? I figured the circular saw, since I'd have to cut against the grain w/a planer but I'm pretty clueless about this stuff so thought I'd check here first. Thanks,
W.D.
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"W.D." <wdanis at NO SPAM yahoo dot com> wrote in message

The circular saw will be fine. Clamp a guide to the door so you get a straight cut.
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On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 14:32:43 -0400, "Kyle Boatright"

clear the clamps holding down the straight edge. Is it my saw or did I do something wrong?
Ended up freehanding it which turned out ok but not perfect.
Mike
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Go here and look at this version of guide: http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm
Don't make it quite like that. Make the bottom board 3" wider. Position the guide piece about 2" away from one edge and install. Rip the bottom board just like shown. Rip it again on the other side of the guide piece with the narrow side of the saw. This will allow enough extra for the clamps to clear the motor housing. There are times when ripping on the narrow side is beneficial.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

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W.D. wrote:

I would use a circular saw cutting it a little less than needed and then use a belt sander to finish it off, giving a better finish and more control over the final cut. Do use a fence to make the cut.
--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
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I remember buggering up a door as the wood splinted toothy style on the one side so that door ended up puttied and painted and would peel more splinters wiping across the carpet - Bah Humbug to free house warming shag carpet many moon ago. Dad said I should have clamped something onto it before making the cut. You'll probably want a new taller threshold to fit the door too. I also remember a eager beaver dog running into that door just as I opened it - made all of my toenails stand at attention - straight up!
"W.D." <wdanis at NO SPAM yahoo dot com> wrote in message

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Ow! My toes just felt your pain. Jeez, that must have hurt.

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"W.D." <wdanis at NO SPAM yahoo dot com> wrote in message

Circular saw but with a SHARP blade. Best to buy a new one for this job and take the lumberyard guy advice on the type. Put tape over the cut line to cut down on splintering. Clamp a straight edge to guide the saw. Under no circumstances try to make the cut free-hand.
Harry K
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On 3 Oct 2004 19:51:06 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Harry K) wrote:

And after taping, score several times with a sharp razor knife right where the cut is to be.
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Also, check the construction. Some "solid wood" doors are actually solid, but use metal fasteners to hold the rails and stiles together instead of mortise and tenons. They can do bad things to saw teeth, the door, and to you if you hit one and don't expect it.

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Thanks, I should have included that. I am one of the many (I am sure) who discovered that the hard way.
Harry K
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score the door right along where you are going to cut with a sharp utility knife several times first , and make sure that your saw is going to clear your clamps and the straightedge/guide itself ... sealing the bottom of the door afterwards is a good idea also ... and make sure that sealer is good and dry before you rehang the door just in case it slightly brushes the carpet still ...
On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 14:26:53 -0400, "W.D." <wdanis at NO SPAM yahoo dot com> wrote:

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W.D. wrote:

Mark the cut line by scoring with a utility knife. Cut it a little too long using a circular saw (preferably with a fence), and use a block plane to clean it up and take it down to the line.
Bob
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