I ripped off my old roof and got it ready for laying the new shingles. I
planned on starting with a whole shingle, next course -4 inches, next
course -8. Then back to the full shingle.
With the 3/8 inch overhang required, each row of shingles is 24 feet and
7/8 inches. If I use full shingles, I come up 7/8 of an inch short at
the end of the row. Should I just allow a bit of space between each
shingle to make up the 7/8 of an inch over the 24 foot run or???
I would go with "or". Lay your starter about 8 inches past the rake,
then first shingle 2 inches over the rake edge, go up to the peak, and
temporarily tack another shingle 2 inches over the rake also. Snap a
chalkline on the decking from the end of the top shingle to the end of
the bottom shingle. About 6 inches in from where you just snapped a
line, you'll see a notch or slit at the top edge of each shingle. Snap
another line between these notches from top to bottom. Use both chalk
lines carefully to line up vertically the right edges of your first
run-up to the peak. Stop every 5 shingles to lay a guide shingle along
the rake at your desired overhang, and with a sharp hook knife, trim
your rake. Save your cut-offs to fill in the other rake edge. Tom
The package will give you the installation instructions. They always
in my experience specify starting the first course with a part
shingle. How much to cut off depends on the appearance you want.
A sign of an amatuer job is where all the cutouts line up in a
straight line going vertically up the roof. Much better looking is
where they line up going in a diagonal. Again the package will tell
how to choose either one depending on the amount you cut off the
Yes, I realize that does not answer your question. The few times I
had that problem, I would cut a piece to fit.
Another tip that I learned way too many jobs down the line is;
Buy 'shingle hatchet' . One eliminates all the eyeballing,
chalklining, etc and speeds things up tremendously. Well on a big
roof you might still have to run a chalk line or two.
I'd say the sign of an fairly amateur job is where the slots _don't
_quite_ line up in a straight line. The offset slot method is for
the_real_ amateur (sorry) that can't lay a straight vertical. And yes,
you're right, it wouldn't obviate the OP's problem. Tom
Dunno where you are from but I have never seen a pro lay with verticle
line up. Appearance of the diagonal is far, far more attractive than
straight up the roof. I worked for roofers in both Tx and Wa. Of
course you could argue they do it that way because it is easier but it
still comes down to 'the pros don't do it'.
I agree with Harry. If one of my clients insists on 3 tab
shingles, I will not allow the roofers to lay them where the
slots line up. For one reason; this promotes water running
straight down the roof in the grooves and causes premature
erosion of the shingles in those channels. Offsetting the
slots spreads the runoff along the entire surface of the
shingles. Didn't anyone tell you that in roofing school?
The shingles will wear just as fast either way, trust me. What I
believe the 6 inch "vertical slot' method provides for best is the
draining water to be as far from the butt edge of the shingle as
possible when it hits the slot. Does this make sense? Tom
Well, your (or my) argument that they do it because it's easier
certainly holds water. I have no idea why the folks that taught me to
roof taught me the vertical slot method, maybe it was slightly easier
to temp over at the end of the day if rain was threatening, or
whatever. I just hope the OP has enough info to deal with his little
7/8ths of an inch problem! Tom
Why not just start the 1st course at -2 inches, then -6, then -10? It will
mean more cutting, but I don't think cutting one to 7/8 inch will hold to
the roof that well.
Of course, I'm not a roofer, and my advice is worth every penny you paid for
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