Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow. Before I could get time to pull the range out to test
to make sure the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought. The clock is working, but the top
elements don't heat. Since the clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be besides the control
I haven't taken the control panel cover off yet. Is there a service manual for this thing? If there is, I can't find
one. They're probably so simple that people who know what they're doing don't need one. I can probably stumble my way
through it. It's good to know to look for fuses in the control panel.
Does the oven work? In other words, do you mean that the top elements don't
work, but the oven does work; or do you mean the top elements don't work and
the oven also doesn't work?
You may want to check the model number again. I think there is supposed to
be a number (1 through 5) between the "N" and the "SS" in the model number.
You can try looking at this website for information and begin by entering
the model number at the top of the main page (do not include the "GE" in the
model number, just the JB700SN.... part):
There is also a good video on the website about how electric range/ovens
work and how to diagnose the problem:
Also, I did a Google search for the owner's manual and it looks like you
should be able to find one online such as at:
Good luck, and let us know what you figure out if you get it solved.
P.S. On the following website link, below where it says Related Videos, and
to the right of where it says How It Works, click on "Disassembly", and then
click on the video on the right that says "GE Electric Range/Stove/Oven
Thanks for the suggestions. It turns out that the problem was extremely simple. For some reason, the 240 volt outlet is
mounted on the floor. When the range was pushed back into place, it partially dislodged the plug. All I had to do was
plug it back in and reroute the cord so that it hopefully will not happen again. It must have been that way for several
years. That's scary.
As far as the clock working, apparently once leg of the plug was making contact, providing 120 to the range.
Although I saved a service call on the range, my heat pump stopped working the same day. It was 4-1/2 pounds low on R22.
Service call $100
R22 - $50 per pound
He checked for a leak outside but didn't find one. He said that if there is one, it's probably in the evaporator coil.
The unit is 15 years old, so if it leaks down again quickly, I'm going to replace the unit instead of spending a lot of
money repairing it. We can't tell how bad the leak is because the Freon hasn't been checked in several years, as I recall.
The gas company has agreed to run gas to our home if we'll convert one or more units (heat pump, water heater, gas logs)
to natural gas. I wanted to convert the water heater to gas since it's time to replace it, but there's not a practical
way to put a low boy water heater under the house.
On Sunday, January 10, 2016 at 9:10:25 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
It stopped working in one day. It leaked 4/5 pounds since the last time it worked. That's a big leak, I bet he doesn't make a week.
Even if he did, a good hvac tech finds and fixes the leak, as required by the refrigerant regulations.
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