Problem with GE JB700SNSS Range

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Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow. Before I could get time to pull the range out to test to make sure the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought. The clock is working, but the top elements don't heat. Since the clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be besides the control module?
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On 1/6/2016 10:00 PM, mcp6453 wrote:

I'd reset the breaker just to be sure. And check for 220 VAC at the socket. The clock might be 110 VAC, and you could have an open leg on the 220.
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On 1/7/2016 10:36 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I did reset the breaker. It didn't help. The next step is to check the voltage on the outlet to make sure the breaker is not bad.
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On 1/7/2016 5:50 PM, mcp6453 wrote:

Best to check the simple things, first. Good way to go.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

panel. How is the unit?
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On 1/8/2016 12:52 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:

I haven't taken the control panel cover off yet. Is there a service manual for this thing? If there is, I can't find one. They're probably so simple that people who know what they're doing don't need one. I can probably stumble my way through it. It's good to know to look for fuses in the control panel.
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On 1/6/2016 10:00 PM, mcp6453 wrote:

Could be power. You need two legs to run the burners, only one leg for the 110V clock and lights. Before you do anything else, turn the breaker off and then back on.
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On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 12:37:10 PM UTC-6, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Already cover Ed...try to keep up! ◔̯◔
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In typed:

Does the oven work? In other words, do you mean that the top elements don't work, but the oven does work; or do you mean the top elements don't work and the oven also doesn't work?
You may want to check the model number again. I think there is supposed to be a number (1 through 5) between the "N" and the "SS" in the model number.
You can try looking at this website for information and begin by entering the model number at the top of the main page (do not include the "GE" in the model number, just the JB700SN.... part): http://www.repairclinic.com/
There is also a good video on the website about how electric range/ovens work and how to diagnose the problem:
http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Range-Stove-Oven/11-3-855349-/GE-Oven-not-heating-JB700SN3SS
Also, I did a Google search for the owner's manual and it looks like you should be able to find one online such as at:
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/58751/Ge-Jsp39snss.html
Good luck, and let us know what you figure out if you get it solved.
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In typed:

P.S. On the following website link, below where it says Related Videos, and to the right of where it says How It Works, click on "Disassembly", and then click on the video on the right that says "GE Electric Range/Stove/Oven Disassembly":
http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Range-Stove-Oven/11-3-855349-/GE-Oven-not-heating-JB700SN3SS
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On 1/9/2016 12:26 PM, TomR wrote:

Thanks for the suggestions. It turns out that the problem was extremely simple. For some reason, the 240 volt outlet is mounted on the floor. When the range was pushed back into place, it partially dislodged the plug. All I had to do was plug it back in and reroute the cord so that it hopefully will not happen again. It must have been that way for several years. That's scary.
As far as the clock working, apparently once leg of the plug was making contact, providing 120 to the range.
Although I saved a service call on the range, my heat pump stopped working the same day. It was 4-1/2 pounds low on R22.
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On 1/10/2016 2:16 PM, mcp6453 wrote:

Thank you for the follow up report. Glad it was some thing simple.
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On 1/10/2016 2:16 PM, mcp6453 wrote:

That's a lot of refrigerant. Did the techs do any checking for leaks?
What did the house call and refrigerant cost?
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On 1/10/2016 6:55 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Service call $100 R22 - $50 per pound
He checked for a leak outside but didn't find one. He said that if there is one, it's probably in the evaporator coil. The unit is 15 years old, so if it leaks down again quickly, I'm going to replace the unit instead of spending a lot of money repairing it. We can't tell how bad the leak is because the Freon hasn't been checked in several years, as I recall.
The gas company has agreed to run gas to our home if we'll convert one or more units (heat pump, water heater, gas logs) to natural gas. I wanted to convert the water heater to gas since it's time to replace it, but there's not a practical way to put a low boy water heater under the house.
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On 1/10/2016 8:00 PM, mcp6453 wrote:

Thank you. It is very possible you will get several more years out of this refrigerant charge. Best wishes. Hope it lasts a long time.
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On Sunday, January 10, 2016 at 9:10:25 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Unlikely.
It stopped working in one day. It leaked 4/5 pounds since the last time it worked. That's a big leak, I bet he doesn't make a week.
Even if he did, a good hvac tech finds and fixes the leak, as required by the refrigerant regulations.
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On 1/11/2016 1:47 PM, TimR wrote:

When I took the EPA course, leak check is only required on systems with 50 pound or greater charge. Might have changed since then.
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On Monday, January 11, 2016 at 2:00:20 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

You might be right. I took my test a long time ago.
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On 1/11/2016 2:13 PM, TimR wrote:

One of us ought to check on that, see what is the regulation at the moment.
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On Mon, 11 Jan 2016 14:00:21 -0500, Stormin Mormon

that is found to be low on charge - even if only a half pound system.
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