Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow. Before I could get time to pull the range out to test to make sure the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought. The clock is working, but the top elements don't heat. Since the clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be besides the control module?
I'd reset the breaker just to be sure. And check for
220 VAC at the socket. The clock might be 110 VAC, and you could have an open leg on the 220.
Could be power. You need two legs to run the burners, only one leg for the 110V clock and lights. Before you do anything else, turn the breaker off and then back on.
re I could get time to pull the range out to test
I thought. The clock is working, but the top
at else could the problem be besides the control
Already cover Ed...try to keep up! ???
I did reset the breaker. It didn't help. The next step is to check the voltage on the outlet to make sure the breaker is not bad.
Best to check the simple things, first. Good way to go.
Old ranges with coil elements have screw in type fuses behind control panel. How is the unit?
I haven't taken the control panel cover off yet. Is there a service manual for this thing? If there is, I can't find one. They're probably so simple that people who know what they're doing don't need one. I can probably stumble my way through it. It's good to know to look for fuses in the control panel.
Does the oven work? In other words, do you mean that the top elements don't work, but the oven does work; or do you mean the top elements don't work and the oven also doesn't work?
You may want to check the model number again. I think there is supposed to be a number (1 through 5) between the "N" and the "SS" in the model number.
You can try looking at this website for information and begin by entering the model number at the top of the main page (do not include the "GE" in the model number, just the JB700SN.... part):
There is also a good video on the website about how electric range/ovens work and how to diagnose the problem:
Also, I did a Google search for the owner's manual and it looks like you should be able to find one online such as at:
Good luck, and let us know what you figure out if you get it solved.
P.S. On the following website link, below where it says Related Videos, and to the right of where it says How It Works, click on "Disassembly", and then click on the video on the right that says "GE Electric Range/Stove/Oven Disassembly":
Thanks for the suggestions. It turns out that the problem was extremely simple. For some reason, the 240 volt outlet is mounted on the floor. When the range was pushed back into place, it partially dislodged the plug. All I had to do was plug it back in and reroute the cord so that it hopefully will not happen again. It must have been that way for several years. That's scary.
As far as the clock working, apparently once leg of the plug was making contact, providing 120 to the range.
Although I saved a service call on the range, my heat pump stopped working the same day. It was 4-1/2 pounds low on R22.
Thank you for the follow up report. Glad it was some thing simple.
day. It was 4-1/2 pounds low on R22.
That's a lot of refrigerant. Did the techs do any checking for leaks?
What did the house call and refrigerant cost?
Service call $100 R22 - $50 per pound
He checked for a leak outside but didn't find one. He said that if there is one, it's probably in the evaporator coil. The unit is 15 years old, so if it leaks down again quickly, I'm going to replace the unit instead of spending a lot of money repairing it. We can't tell how bad the leak is because the Freon hasn't been checked in several years, as I recall.
The gas company has agreed to run gas to our home if we'll convert one or more units (heat pump, water heater, gas logs) to natural gas. I wanted to convert the water heater to gas since it's time to replace it, but there's not a practical way to put a low boy water heater under the house.
Thank you. It is very possible you will get several more years out of this refrigerant charge. Best wishes. Hope it lasts a long time.
Unlikely.
It stopped working in one day. It leaked 4/5 pounds since the last time it worked. That's a big leak, I bet he doesn't make a week.
Even if he did, a good hvac tech finds and fixes the leak, as required by the refrigerant regulations.
When I took the EPA course, leak check is only required on systems with 50 pound or greater charge. Might have changed since then.
You might be right. I took my test a long time ago.
Even here in Ontario Canad a leak check is required on ANY system that is found to be low on charge - even if only a half pound system.
Excellent. Glad it worked out and turned out to be something simple. Thanks for the update.
Oops.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.