Problem with cigarette smoke

I write in hope of some serious answers. I know this general issue has come up before, and wading through the incredulous and the trolls doing a search yields nothing that seems likely to work. Maybe there is nothing; if not, so be it. We just moved into our new home after over 7 months of renovations. The problem is cigarette smoke from one of our neighbors. This is an attached house, with a party wall (concrete). (attached on the other side too, separate construction, not a problem. When the walls were open, I was not aware of any plumbing coming directly from the smoking neighbor. There are cabinets mounted in our kitchen on the party wall. Holes were cut in the cabinet backs to accommodate some drainage and steam pipes (ours), and there is an opening around our plumbing which we will seal off. We don't know what might be the best way to do this, and I have no idea if it will work (though the cigarette smoke is strongest in these cabinets. This does appear to be coming through the walls--somehow, and not through vents to the outside. This is old construction (c. 1940). There is no question that there is cigarette smoke. It's not nearly as big a problem for me (my sense of smell was never the same since organic chemistry), but my wife is very upset. I'm quite sure I have no legal recourse, and in any case wouldn't expect my neighbor to modify his smoking on my behalf. Really just interested to know if anyone has dealt with some mechanical means of dealing with this problem that was effective.

TIA, Steve

Reply to
Steven Bornfeld
Loading thread data ...

You haven't discussed the roof of the building and whether there is an attic. And if so, is the common wall also closing off your attic from the neighbor's attic? Do you have a vent fan that only vents to the attic?

Use cans of spray foam to seal up the pipes.

Does your neighbor's kitchen share your wall?

IS the "concrete" wall actually concrete block? Is the concrete wall painted? A heavy coat of paint will seal any cracks and voids in the concrete. A poured wall in the 1940's may well have voids where the concrete was hand mixed and then poured into the forms. The interface between pours was not well mixed. We had a house built in 1948 with a hand mixed and poured concrete basement. Walls clearly showed lack of mixing and let water leak in.

Paul

Reply to
Paul Drahn

I agree with Paul. Check the attic. Hopefully the wall extends past the roof line (fire stop). Other places to seal would be electrical outlets. If all else fails, positive pressure in your side will keep any odors, cool air, warm air and etc. from entering your space. This can be done with a small fan if located properly. The location of your house/apt in regards to wind direction and such will affect the performance, so placing the fan is critical.

Holding something that smokes ( like a cigarette) around different places will help you determine where the odor is entering.

Good luck and happy hunting.

If all else fails, bring home some Nitrous Oxide and have her take a few hits. LOL

Hank

Reply to
Hank

There is no attic. It's a flat rubber roof. All vents are through the roof, except the laundry which vents to the back brick wall.

We plan to do that (though our contractor seems to think it will take too many cans--I think he suggested fiberglass insulation, though I'm sure foam (is it polystyrene?) would seal far better.

I don't know. A few weeks ago my wife complained of a fishy smell, so we may--and cooking odors may be a problem too. But the primary problem is the cigarette smoke.

I have no idea. When the wall was open, I saw no indication that it was concrete block, so I'm guessing it was poured concrete. Wow, I didn't know they were still hand mixing concrete by the 1940s. We don't seem to have any problems with external leaks (some of the internal plumbing leaked and had to be changed.

Thanks, Steve

Reply to
Steven Bornfeld

The outlets--that's something to try (though I wouldn't think that much air would pass through them. Nitrous might help. ;-)

Steve

Reply to
Steven Bornfeld

cut To start with, produce some positive pressure in your home, to stop the polluted air from coming into the house. A ventilator sucking outside air would do that.

Reply to
Sjouke Burry

Have you tried OZONE shocking the room and cabinets?

Reply to
monsterclean63

Since your problem is with vapors, you may get results with vapor barrier foam board, or sheet fiberglass. But, the vapor barrier is what's needed.

I've done a bunch of sheet metal work, so I'd be thinking sheet metal cut to shape, and stuck on with silicone caulk. You may be able to get the same result with sheet plastic, and easier to cut.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

formatting link
.

We plan to do that (though our contractor seems to think it will take too many cans--I think he suggested fiberglass insulation, though I'm sure foam (is it polystyrene?) would seal far better.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Hank, they are trying to keep the cig smoke out, not make their own!

I've seen electrical outlet "foams" for sale.

I'd also still be looking for a way to make your side positive pressure. Perhaps a cold air intake for the return side of your furnace.

Christ>

The outlets--that's something to try (though I wouldn't think that much air would pass through them. Nitrous might help. ;-)

Steve

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Excellent idea! Keep em coming.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

formatting link
.

To start with, produce some positive pressure in your home, to stop the polluted air from coming into the house. A ventilator sucking outside air would do that.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Interesting. Got a URL?

Years ago, I think it was Alpine Air. Someone I knew loaned me an ozone generator, which I ended up not buying. It was $500 for a little box with an ionizer. One of those may help clear the air.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

formatting link
.

Have you tried OZONE shocking the room and cabinets?

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

It doesn't take much, and if your wife is sensitized to it, she will notice an infinitesimal amount.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken

ts are through the

fishy smell, so

febreze to get rid of existing smell we have successfully used bleach wiped on the non-porous surfaces and gently sprayed on the porous ones.

positive air pressure electronic air cleaner seal between buildings

prognosis is not good. we live in rural area with a density of 1 hm per several acres. 650 feet sw of us is obviously a heavy smoker. when the wind shifts, swear it smells like being in a pool hall. no mitigation for that at all. olfactory is sensitive to parts per billion. found that inhaling a bit of antihistamine helps.

As with any allergy [like smelling cigarette smoke]; once triggered stays for a long time, must then get exposure way down below level for a long time to 'reset' sensitivity.

Reply to
Robert Macy

I'm hoping not to have to re-open the wall, but I may have to. Have to check the bank account. :-(

Steve

Reply to
Steven Bornfeld

Maybe it's true for my wife. My sense of smell fatigues rather quickly, and if it were just me I could live with it. But I don't think I can live with the wife...and the smell at the same time.

Thanks, Steve

Reply to
Steven Bornfeld

Several people have mentioned this, and it makes sense. Especially given the (non) winter we've had here.

Thanks, Steve

Reply to
Steven Bornfeld

Before doing anythign major, like a dermal abrasion on your wall. Please have a HVAC guy (or do it yourself) have a look at the ducts. You may have arterial or venous shunt, which is mixing air with the othe side.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

formatting link
.

I'm hoping not to have to re-open the wall, but I may have to. Have to check the bank account. :-(

Steve

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

May be an allergy, on her part. I know it is, for me.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

formatting link
.

Maybe it's true for my wife. My sense of smell fatigues rather quickly, and if it were just me I could live with it. But I don't think I can live with the wife...and the smell at the same time.

Thanks, Steve

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Hee are some ideas:

Shared dryer vents?

Shared Stove top cooking vents?

Shared plumbing stack venting? unlikely but if there is one missing missing trap on one sink somewhere and the plumbing venting is shared then air may be able to travel...

Chimney sharing?

Light fixtures on the ceiling? check for air leaks, it's a stretch but worth a try.

Somebody mentioned electrical outlets

how about attic access doors??? silicone seal the cracks in the attic door access to stop airflow and if you ever need access back into the attic, it's easy to cut and reapply new sealant

Something between the garages?

Central vaccuum venting? or collection tank?

Air moving between the floor joists?

Reply to
Duesenberg

One simple measure that comes to mind is weatherstripping around doors...are entrances close to each other, such that your exhaust fan could pull air from their residence that way?

Reply to
Norminn

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.