Just out of curiosity, what do they charge for R22 these days? Figure
residential central air and sold / installed by a professional, licensed
tech on a service call. Service call & labor charged separately. I'm
sure it's gone way up in recent years.
It was way up, but it has come down now that new units are not using it.
Most of what is available has been recovered. I'll let you know once
we get the bill from our service company.They are charging our R-22
IIC, it was $60+ a few years ago and is now closer to $40 to $50.
It migh not be the actual cost of the R22. Last year I had a service
call that turned out to be a bad capacitor. For a less than $ 50
capacitor ( allowing a fair markup) it cost me about $ 350 for the
service call. The service man was here just long enough to take a cover
off the unit, look at the capacitor, go to his truck and get one.
Almost no time to find and replace the bad capacitor.
Some times, the parts is the smallest section
of the final bill. One tradesman I used to know
said one time "if they could do the job, they
would do it them selves and never call you. You
can do the job, they can't. And you have to
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
How much time did it actually take, incluiding driving to & from the
customer? You have a tech who being paid all day, a truck, and a lot of
parts in that truck, plus what I presume is hefty insurance, especially
$350 sounds steep but it's clear they can't just charge 5 minutes and
expect to stay in business. I have no idea what the going rate is as I've
not had a tech out in a while. I had a bad condensing unit cap several
years ago but I was able to take care of that myself by picking one up at
Grainger the next day. Similarly a stuck contactor one time.
I did not go into the whole story. When I called about the heatpump I
was told it would be a $ 89 service call to find out what was wrong.
Reasonable to me.
In probably 10 minuits he had found the bad capacitor and replaced it,
maybe not that long. Then came the shocker.. We were talking while he
was working and I told him I worked on many electrical and other things
at work. He asked me what I thought the capacitor would cost to replace
it and I guessed $ 50 knowing that was way high just to get one at the
He showed me a chart of the standard company repair charges and that
capacitor was in the $ 350 level. Funny thing about the level of
charges was that he said he could give it a 'spring tuneup' for $ 100
that included cleaning the coils inside and outside. It took him much
longer to do that. I had him to do that so I could see how it was done.
I learned a lot from that.
I got on ebay and ordered a capacitor and a relay that may go bad at
sometime so I can replace them myself the next time. The total cost was
less than $ 30 for both of them.
I have a lady friend who lives in a more expensive town a couple over.
She hates it when she calls a service guy or contractor, and the first
thing they ask is "what city do you live in?" She gets charged more
because of where she lives - not distance, but house prices.
"Big Giant Head" wrote in message
Taxed and Spent wrote:
You could put a positive slant on it and say they are giving a discount to
those less able to pay!
That could be truth however it also known fact, that different town have
different user tax laws!
State and city taxes are base where the work was perform and not where the
service company is located.
Just because something comes from ebay does not mean it could not be
made in the US. Buying form Amazon does not mean it is made in the US
either. I looked and this particular one came from Mexico. Amazon has
the same brand.
It does not make any difference where an item is made, but what company
makes it and how it is made.
I buy a lot of things by mail. Some from Amazon, ebay, and the beter
known and not so beter known supply houses. It just depends on where the
best price is for the item I want.
When someone says 'quality made in the US" I think of all the pieces of
junk cars made in the US or designed by the companies in the US even
though most are made in another country now. Switched over to the Jap
cars around 1981 and been happy with them. I did buy a new Ford in the
late 90's and that turned into a bad mistake. Got rid of it at about
30,000 miles. First thing to go was the inition switch. Never had one
of those to go out on any other car in my life. Another car (Dodge)
only made it to about 20,000 before I got rid of it. That thing had a
habit of not starting for some reason. The dealer could not find the
problem after around 10 trips back to them. An uncle bought one similar
to that and he was always having some problem with his.
This brought a smile to my face as I look at my recently washed and
waxed 1995 Ford Thunderbird with 94,000 miles sitting in the garage. I
purchased it new in June of 1995 to replace my 10 year old 1985 Ford
Thunderbird that had 234,000 miles on the odometer. I sold the '85 to a
new driver who totaled it in two months time.
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