Prewiring alarm for a new house

I am building a new house, and as an almost afterthought, I want to install prewiring for an alarm system. I am thinking of just prewiring the system for now, and purchase the system/subscription later. The drywall is not up, so this should be reasonably easy to do.

System wise, I don't want to commit to a particular system/vendor yet, and I want flexibility of choosing from different provider later. I assume that all the wires are compatible amongst the many different systems (ie, the three wires for power, ground, and signal, same gauge requirements, etc)? If not, what should I look for?

What can I expect to pay for this? How do I spot a good installer? What questions do I ask? How many sensors should I install (I am thinking all the doors, all the windows, fire, water, smoke, low O2 (is there such thing), what else am I missing?)?

Thanks.

Reply to
John Smith
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Sorry, I don't get the logic. You're trying to prepare for a universal compatibility that you don't even know exists, and for no other reason than not wanting to commit to a service provider???

Well, you know what happens when you do that...

So many questions, and the only answer is with another one: WHY?

Pick a damned security company and let them wire the place.

Do you REALLY think somebody will come in and guarantee the workmanship of their installation using your existing wiring?

If you were planning on doing this yourself, I could maybe see some logic here, but you're talking about getting some contractor who DOESN'T do this everyday (the installers from the security company DO) and paying them to do it, and you have no clue as to what they should charge you?

Yikes.

Reply to
I-zheet M'drurz

Sigh.

Read the thread about messed up programming. You're sure to create unrest with such questions...

Apparent rules here.

  1. You're an idiot if you don't install systems for a living.
  2. Don't ask what something means. You don't need to know.
  3. If something goes wrong it's your fault. Call the installer to fix it.
  4. Anything else, refer to #1.

Other than that, do some research, do the work yourself, and have it d> I am building a new house, and as an almost afterthought, I want to install

Reply to
Warren Stone

Had a similar situation where the builder did the prewire and we added an alarm system about a year later. Found out too late that the wire to one window was shorted ouit (nail, who knows?) and so one window will never trip.

By the way - there are good alarm systems that can be installed that do NOT require any kind of subscription or contract. Find a company that is willing to install one of those and do not get coerced into signing a multi-year contract.

Reply to
Clark W. Griswold, Jr.

You don't need prewiring the house. if you are use German Shepherd

Reply to
Kukutyin

John, there are companies around that specialize in pre wiring homes. They usually sell their services to building contractors, so you might want to talk to one of your local builders to see who they use. Around here, they charge the builders from $250 to $500 to do a complete pre wire including, all doors, all ground floor and basement windows, a couple of motions, a couple of keypad locations, and a smoke on the upper floor.

Time to do it is when the doors and windows are installed but there is no drywall or insulation up. This usually gives you a window of about a week to get it done. Have him run loops into the attic for future additions on the second floor. I also have a bit more detail on my website if you care to go there..

R.H.Campbell Home Security Metal Products Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

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Reply to
RH.Campbell

Sir, just another comment. I regularly install professional alarms in homes that are pre wired. In most cases, everything works out well and I am able to offer the homeowner a discount on his alarm system, since most of my work is done. However, it is fairly common that drywallers or other trades will damage a wire (and it's usually one that goes to a window that is difficult to retrofit). About the only thing you can do is check all wires in the quad to see if you have one usable pair, or go wireless on that one window.

As for your comments about finding a progressive company that doesn't lock you into a multi year contract, I couldn't agree more. There is absolutely NOTHING in a long term contract that benefits the consumer other than the obvious benefit of being able to defer payment of your alarm system over many months. But if you pay for it at a fair market price up front, then you should be able to get your ongoing services for a more reasonable price without a long term commitment on your part.

R.H.Campbell Home Security Metal Products Ottawa, >

Reply to
RH.Campbell

Do a cost analysis. Cost of Dog, plus training, plus food, plus vet bills, plus increased insurance due to having a 'scary' dog- may be cheaper to get robbed once in a while. (Not to mention the hours pissed away walking and cleaning up after the thing.)

aem sends....

Reply to
ameijers

There (of course) are a couple of different types of systems on the market. You should know which type you want to go with prior to pre-wiring your new house. One type are two-wire (addressable) systems which only use 2 wires for power, signal, etc. and are read by their addresses on the circuit. These systems install in that somewhat of a daisy chain so you can run a wire to one device, from there to another, etc etc. Also there are standard devices which are addressed by which terminal they are installed to in the panel. Personally, I prefer this type of system as if one device fails, atleast the rest of your property will be covered. So depending on the type of system that interests you most, I would go with 22/2 wire for the addressable and 22/4 or 22/6 wire for the standard or more common system type. Then again, there is always wireless (no one tell paul I said that). As far as what and where you will need as far as devices, I would have to see the place to make this decision. To start, I would place door contacts on all entryways and a smoke/carbon monoxide detector in the utility and garage areas. Instead of wiring all of your windows with contacts, place a motion detector in each room where a lot of windows will be installed aimed towards the windows. Roughly, I think a 500ft box of 22ga. wire runs about $2-300 depending on where you get it. AA

Reply to
Another Anonymous

His knowledge better for dog

Reply to
Kukutyin

Hi John,

It's simple enough to prewire for an effective alarm system during construction. You're right to plan for flexibility as well. As you surmised, the cabling for keypads, power, phone connection and ground is similar with most systems. A few systems are starting to use CAT5 for the keypads but with most you can use 22/4 (22-gauge, 4-conductor) cable for just about everything. Although the magnetic door and window sensors (in the trade these are called "contacts") only need two wires there's very little difference in cost between 2 and 4 conductor cable so many techs just use the four.

Plan on installing the contacts with the wires if at all possible. Contacts are cheap -- the best ones cost only $3 or $4 apiece -- and it's a bit easier to insert them during construction than afterward. Bug each external door and each operable window. I have an extensive FAQ website where you can learn a bit about what to choose and how to install it in case you decide to DIY. Even if you hire an alarm contractor it's good to educate yourself so you will know what to expect and even what to insist on.

Plan for motion detectors in a few strategic locations. It's good to have motion detection in front of (but not actually facing) the stairs leading to the sleeping area. If the home is a single story, put a motion detector in the bedroom hallway. Place a motion detector in the family room or wherever the audio / video gear will be since that is a target location for thieves. If you will have an office, consider placing a detector there, too. Some folks like to install a motion sensor in the master bedroom since that is also a target for thieves.

If there will be large glass doors in any first floor or basement level room consider installing a glass breakage detector in that area as well. These devices can detect breaking glass 20 to 25 feet away so they protect an entire room. I should mention that glass break detection is considered supplemental protection by many installers. It doesn't replace magnetic contacts. It's a backup.

If you are going to have the house monitored in the future, consider installing a few system smoke detectors to augment the 110-Volt ones the builder will install. While almost any smoke detector will wake you up and save your life, a monitored detector may get the fire department there in time to save your house should something happen while you are out.

If the home will have gas heat or appliances you may want to prewire for carbon monoxide detectors as well. These are typically installed at "breathing level" (about 5 feet from the floor) near the bedrooms and in the vicinity of possible CO-producing appliances.

Prewire for a keypad at the door leading to the garage / driveway. Place another keypad in the master bedroom. If there will be a formal entrance many people like to put a keypad there as well. However, I usually recommend against that one since it may rarely be used. It all depends on the layout -- how your family will usually come and go. I usually specify

18/4 fire alarm cable for smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors.

Don't forget the siren speakers. Plan on one in the basement, one near the bedrooms and one either in the attic or under the eaves as high off the ground as can be. The speakers should be wired with 18-gauge cable. If you have some extra fire alarm cable you can use it for those as well.

Run 22/4 or CAT5 (it makes no difference which) for the telephone connection. This needs to be a dedicated, 4-wire cable from where the phones enter the house to the alarm control panel. Speaking of where the phone line enters, try to have the telco or the electrician move the telephone company "demarc" (gray box on the outside wall) to the inside of the house and conceal the cable. If you will have a basement the best way is to run the cable through the foundation wall below grade. That way no one can cut the phone line -- a growing problem in some areas.

Be sure to run a ground wire for the control panel. This can be a single solid or stranded, 12 to 14-gauge wire. It should run to the home's main electrical ground. That's usually either a long, copper clad stake near the electric meter. Use your own clamp; don't share another service's ground or some TI may remove your ground later. You can also use a cold water pipe

*if* everything else is grounded to the cold water pipe and *if* there is no insulating connector between the panel and the water meter.

Look for a few local alarm firms in the local directory and explain what you want to do. Many alarm companies don't want to do anything without signing a multi-year monitoring contract up front but you may luck out and find a good one. If not, consider doing it yourself. It's not difficult and only a few simple tools are required. My business caters to DIYers so if you decide to go that route I can help with parts and tech support.

Best of luck.

Alarm and Home Automation System FAQ

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Regards, Robert

=============================>

Bass Home Electronics

2291 Pine View Circle Sarasota · Florida · 34231 877-722-8900 Sales & Tech Support 941-925-9747 Fax 941-232-0791 Wireless Nextel Private ID - 161*21755*1
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Reply to
Robert L. Bass

And this, gang, is why Robert is a success in running his on-line store.

He took the time to give the man as much information, if not more, than he needed. If he can then turn around and sell the man his parts and his monitoring, it will be a win win situation! Why not? He has to buy the parts somewhere and he can't buy from our wholesale houses in Texas without a valid company license. With Bass, he will get support helping him use what he buys.

I know that some will take exception to what I have said and will try and convince John why they shouldn't buy from Bass, but where are you in filling in the gap?

Reply to
Allan Waghalter

You are a fool if you think a dog is the answer to your security needs. Same goes for a gun. I just love it when some idiot says "alarm? My .357 is the only protection I need." js

Reply to
alarman

while at it why not install for the cable TV, the high speed computer stuff, etc... put the wires in now and later if you want something you will have the wires installed and just the modules are needed.. the guy down the block just built a new two story house and had a company come out and install his wiring for him before they put up the sheetrock... dont know what it cost, but he is in business now for the future....

Reply to
jim

Half the time they wind up shooting themselves or their kid shoots a playmate. The other half of the time the thief takes the gun away and shoots them with it.

Reply to
Robert L. Bass

Dogs aren't the be-all and end-all of home security, but homes with dogs (large or small) tend to get burglarized much less often than homes without dogs. All other things being equal, it's preferable to a thief to break into a house without a dog compared to a house with a dog.

Regards,

George Wenzel

Reply to
George Wenzel

Now, why didn't I think of that? Thank you...

Reply to
Clark W. Griswold, Jr.

Alarm companies will pre-wire almost for free, like $150 or $200. They expect to make it up when they gouge you on the system. That's the industry model. Call several.

-B

Reply to
B

Someone named "Allan Waghalter" Proclaimed on Mon, 26 Apr 2004 02:41:21 GMT,

Damn Allan you're right! I'll fill in the gaps.

Here is what Mr. Bass ain't telling the potential customer:

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Thanks for pointing that out Allan.

-Graham

Reply to
G. Morgan

Someone named "Another Anonymous" Proclaimed on Mon, 26 Apr 2004 01:54:23 GMT,

Nope - we don't put smoke detectors in garages or utility rooms....

Nope - Now is the best time to get the windows wired for contacts. And motion detectors won't be on when the homeowner is home - so we DO wire the windows Mr. Anonymous

Nope - we don't aim motion detectors right at windows!

You better stick to debating Paul about wireless dude.

-Graham

Reply to
G. Morgan

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