I have been inflating it every few days to keep the pump from running too much. The current tank is welded shut, so no chance of fixing the bladder/diaphragm. In any case, I've already bought the tank. It's on my porch, ready for action.
the pump from running too much. The current tank is welded shut, so no chance of fixing the bladder/ diaphragm. In any case, I've already bought the tank. It's on my porch, ready for action.
Ah, that provides a bit more information. Thanks, nice to hear a few more details.
How's your wrench pulling and pipe thread doping skills? Done a bunch of galvanized iron?
You tube is your friend:
That's a big tank, like for a house. On smaller, maybe 10 gallon tanks that I see for irrigation use, I think they have a fitting on top and the bladder probably comes out from there.
I know there was more than one type. But I think they all need some feedback/control mechanism to keep the air at the right level. The air is supposed to be from where the gizmo is, up to the top of the tank. If water rises above that, it triggers it to start pumping air. Without feedback, if you just put some in each time, you still wouldn't get it right and you could wind up with a tank full of air, instead of half water.
Galvanized iron? I'm going to do what this crazy guy does. Looks straightforward.
Who cares? If there's a bit too much air, it comes out the faucet next time. No worries.
How's your wrench pulling and pipe thread doping skills? Done a bunch of PVC?
I remember from some where, CPVC is used for drinking water, but can't remember why. Hope that works out for you.
I don't think folks would like it so much if air and water was spurting out in fits from their faucets. Which is what would happen if the tank got full of air. And it would continue to do that, as the pump put more in each cycle. That's why they have a regulating system.
And I've never seen one without it. Every appliance using/supplying water s hould have one for just such a reason. It recently cost me $120 to have a shut-off installed on the well line entering the house where I forgot to sp ecify it when the well was drilled. That was an unusual situation though. I had a leak and needed to shut that line off to isolate it.
Harry K
Both PVC and CPVC are rated for drinking water. CPVC must be used for hot water lines as PVC can't take the heat. I did my whole house while remodeling and old shack with CPVC just for the convenience of having only one system.
Harry K
And I've never seen one without it. Every appliance using/supplying water should have one for just such a reason. It recently cost me $120 to have a shut-off installed on the well line entering the house where I forgot to specify it when the well was drilled. That was an unusual situation though. I had a leak and needed to shut that line off to isolate it.
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I thought we were talking about a valve between the well and the pressure tank.
should have one for just such a reason. It recently cost me $120 to have a shut-off installed on the well line entering the house where I forgot to specify it when the well was drilled. That was an unusual situation though . I had a leak and needed to shut that line off to isolate it.
You're confusing a shutoff valve for the water supply *to the house*, with a shutoff valve between the well and tank. Of course there should always be a shutoff between the tank and the house. But I've never seen one between the well and tank. What purpose exactly does it serve? Assuming it's a submersible, all it does is block the flow of water into the tank which you could just as easily do by shutting off the breaker. If the tank has 60 gallons of water, that water will still be available to run into the house, unless there is a valve between the house and tank.
+1
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The well goes _DIRECT_ to the house w/o any intermediary??? That's certainly peculiar--water on demand instead of just hot water.
And, it would seem to be a pretty incompetent installer that would just ignore the obvious despite the "forgetting" in a spec. Would perhaps be a scope change but to not have isolation/cutoff on the house probably doesn't meet Code (presuming there's one applicable in the area which granted may not be in rural area on on well).
er should have one for just such a reason. It recently cost me $120 to hav e a shut-off installed on the well line entering the house where I forgot t o specify it when the well was drilled. That was an unusual situation thou gh. I had a leak and needed to shut that line off to isolate it.
Here is why it would be useful to have a shutoff valve between tank and wel l.
ater should have one for just such a reason. It recently cost me $120 to h ave a shut-off installed on the well line entering the house where I forgot to specify it when the well was drilled. That was an unusual situation th ough. I had a leak and needed to shut that line off to isolate it.
The valve he shuts off is *not* between the tank and the well. The valve is between the tank and the house water lines. I don't understand all the confusion here. To drain any sediment, all you really need to do is:
A - Shut off the power to the well pump
B - Connect a drain hose
C - Open the drain valve.
D - Partially drain the tank.
E - Turn pump back on, repeat as necessary until it's clear.
He also closed off the valve to the house, but that is pointless, unless you were going to drain the tank totally, to the point that water would run out of the house system. The only other purpose would be if you can't make sure no one is going to draw water while you're doing the process for 10 mins, but for most of us, that isn't an issue. You might also want to have the pump on for a while as you're draining, to try to stir it up.
water should have one for just such a reason. It recently cost me $120 to have a shut-off installed on the well line entering the house where I forg ot to specify it when the well was drilled. That was an unusual situation though. I had a leak and needed to shut that line off to isolate it.
You are right. My bad. That is a shutoff valve to the house.
we were and I was. Complicated situation. Back when I bought this place it was serviced from a community well that had been drilled by the state when the highway rebuild ruined the spring. Served 4 hourses originally but mi ne and the neighbove 1/4 mile away (who had the well) were the only ones le ft. I somehow wound up being the unpaid 'well fixer' and as time went on I even became the "well fixer upper guy who got to pay the costs".
I drilled myi own well to get off that community well but kept the intercon nection "in case". 'In case' happened twice at the neighbors and they used off my well until theirs was fixed. Then about 2 months ago my well pump started running about every 15 minutes. What with all the irrigation lines I had installed, I was looking at a major digging project to find the leak .
OK. Told the neighbor I would be using off their well. Turned on the inte rconnect and then discovered that there was no shut-ff between the pressur tank and my well. Neighbor would have been pumping right into wherever my l eak was. Had to pay the $120 to a plumber to get a shut-off installed - it would have cost about $10 if I had thought to tell the well drillers to in stall one.
My leak turned out to be in the well, galvanic corrosion ate a big hole jus t above the pump (galvanized to brass connection). It also did the same at the pitless adapter.
I am a firm believer that there should be a shutoff on any line where it en ters the house. Most would never or only very rarely used but when needed. ..
Harry K
we were and I was. Complicated situation. Back when I bought this place it was serviced from a community well that had been drilled by the state when the highway rebuild ruined the spring. Served 4 hourses originally but mine and the neighbove 1/4 mile away (who had the well) were the only ones left. I somehow wound up being the unpaid 'well fixer' and as time went on I even became the "well fixer upper guy who got to pay the costs".
I drilled myi own well to get off that community well but kept the interconnection "in case". 'In case' happened twice at the neighbors and they used off my well until theirs was fixed. Then about 2 months ago my well pump started running about every 15 minutes. What with all the irrigation lines I had installed, I was looking at a major digging project to find the leak.
OK. Told the neighbor I would be using off their well. Turned on the interconnect and then discovered that there was no shut-ff between the pressur tank and my well. Neighbor would have been pumping right into wherever my leak was.
didn't you have a check valve between the pressure tank and the well?
No. I know people think one should be there but it is redundant and does nothing but add restrictions to the system. The checkvalve goes in the well, normally just above the pump or it may be part of the pump.
One can be, however, installed between tank and well somewhere if the one in the well fails.
I saw a report somewhere where someone had installed multiple checkvalves in the drop pipe on a very deep well. No explanation of why they thought that was a good idea.
Harry K
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