First call, longtime listener.
I'm changing out the water pressure tank, but I don't have a shut off valve from tank to well to drain the tank. If I turn off the breaker to the well pump, will this effectively shut off the water so I can drain the tank and replace it? Help much appreciated.
Mike
I'm changing out the water pressure tank, but I don't have a shut off valve from tank to well to drain the tank. If I turn off the breaker to the well pump, will this effectively shut off the water so I can drain the tank and replace it? Help much appreciated.
_____
yes.
ve from tank to well to drain the tank. If I turn off the breaker to the we ll pump, will this effectively shut off the water so I can drain the tank a nd replace it? Help much appreciated.
Yes, and while you are chaning it out, you should install that missing shut
-off valve.
Harry K
ve from tank to well to drain the tank. If I turn off the breaker to the we ll pump, will this effectively shut off the water so I can drain the tank a nd replace it? Help much appreciated.
Many thanks!
Yes, and while you are chaning it out, you should install that missing shut-off valve.
Harry K
I have never seen a well pump with a valve (other than a check valve) on its outlet to the pressure tank.
the well pump, will this effectively shut off the water so I can drain the tank and replace it? Help much appreciated.
That's the routine way you would do it, anyway. You don't want the pump kicking on when you empty the tank and lose pressure that it will if leave on unless block the pressure switch which is klunky way to go at it.
Just turn the pump supply breaker off.
Not really -- you _never_ want a deadhead of the well pump that's possible if somebody inadvertently closes that valve.
While there is one here, it's never been closed (and is wired so can't be closed w/o specific effort to remove the wire) since installed in '64. The pressure tank has been replaced several times in that time span.
don't have a shut off valve from tank to well to drain the tank. If I turn off the breaker to the well pump, will this effectively shut off the water so I can drain the tank and replace it? Help much appreciated.
Yes, should. I'd open a couple faucets, to drain the pressure. Expect to get a little wet, no such thing as perfect.
So, tell us why you're replacing the tank? might be that's not your real problem.
The plumber said the diaphragm is broken in the tank we have. The pressure switch constantly flips on when water is run in the house. He wants $900.00 to replace it with an Amtrol WX203 32 Gal tank. I'm putting in a Flotec 35 Gallon instead.
If you mean you've never seen a shut off valve between the well and the tank, I agree. There normally isn't one and there is no need for one. There typically is a drain valve on the tank and a valve between the tank and the house water system or whatever it's supplying.
All he has to do is shut off the pump and drain the tank.
If the tank is otherwise OK, I believe on some, if not all of them, you can replace the diaphram/bladder.
tank we have. The pressure switch constantly flips on when water is run in the house. He wants $900.00 to replace it with an Amtrol WX203 32 Gal tank. I'm putting in a Flotec 35 Gallon instead.
Before spending $900, I'd be tempted to do some more research. I'm right on the edge of my wisdom, about well tanks. Is there a tire inflater valve on there some where? Might check that with a tire gage, see if there is pressure. Also press the valve stem, see if water comes out. (If water comes out, I think that indicates bad diaphragm.)
Just for diagnostic, I'd also turn off the well pump breaker, and put an air compressor on the tire valve. Inflate to 30 PSI, See if you can get air to come out the water faucets (sign of leaking diaphragm).
Who knows? Might just be the tank needs reinflating.
Years ago, some friends had a well pump in the cellar, with expansion tank. Every now and again, he had to turn off the house water, and let the tank drain. Would made more sense to me to put a tire valve on top of the tank, and pump more air in. There was already a gadget with a diaphragm (not in the tank) and hose that was supposed to "regulate the air" which I think means put in a tiny spot of air every time the pump cycled on and off.
I think the bladder tanks like the OP has, are designed to NOT lose the air charge, and "never needs refilling".
tank we have. The pressure switch constantly flips on when water is run in the house. He wants $900.00 to replace it with an Amtrol WX203 32 Gal tank. I'm putting in a Flotec 35 Gallon instead.
not all of them, you
I'd first try to reinflate, and see if the bladder is still there. Might be just a couple minutes with air compressor could get by for the next year or more.
I haven't messed with mine but plumber suggested turning off water to tank, letting water bleed off into house and pressurizing to maybe 25 psi. Think if I noted what appeared to be too rapid cycling, I'd check the pressure.
I have a ball shut off valve beyond the tank and with my whole house filter, there are more ball valves to isolate and bypass the filter making change easy.
I think originally that there was no bladder in pressure tanks and they just relied on the air space. They added bladders later since the air will eventually dissolve in the water requiring air to be added frequently.
That's how the old system worked. If the tank needed more air, it would put some in by using the pump to suck air during a regular pumping cycle. And as you say, sometimes they went kaput and then the tank would become water logged. That system only works if the pump is by the tank.
Correct, until something goes wrong with them too. I think you can replace the bladder on at least some of them. I raised that as an easier, cheaper possibility.
Before bladders they had a system that regulated the air to the correct level by allowing the pump to suck some air in during a pump cycle, if the level of air in the tank was too low. Without that, in a period of months, the tank would water log, as you point out.
The one I found on the web was factory charged to 38, so
25 PSI sounds reasonable. I'd sure rather inflate to 38 PSI once a year, compared to spending $900. I can get a nice compressor for 9 c'notes and inflate tires to boot.
The one I saw briefly, had a doodad that looked like a flying saucer with a hose. I think that's designed to inject a small bit of air each time the pump cycles.
Would you have to open the tank some how, to get the old bladder out? Might be a bit of work, for sure.
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