Preping basement walls

I purchased a sheet of Owens Pink. when I placed it against the wall, I noticed that there is a lot of concrete burrs and nipples left over from the forms that were used to poor the walls. Should I attempt to work around those or can I remove them somehow ?
Thanks
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Dont let a concrete ooze burr cause your stud wall to be crooked, either notch the stud or chip off the burr with a chiesel where needed. These can be chipped off without harming the foundation wall. Not sure what you mean by "nipples" though.
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if you are putting the foamboard against the wall first (you should be), then it isn't a problem since it will press right into the foam. then you true the studs on their own.
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On Jan 14, 1:57 pm, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

The forms had a hole in the middle about 1.5" dia. that the concrete started to ooze out of to form small round protrusions about 1/2" out from the wall (some as far as an inch) exactly in the middle of the form. I thought the best description was a nipple.
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Those I would not just chip off then, I was thinking it was normal ooze, best to work around those. If you are applying rigid pink directly to the walls you'll want to dry lock the wall first with latex dryloc. To prevent dampness mold from forming between the panels and the concrete which will have no airflow.
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In another post "Installing foil backed insullation board" I ask about the how to control moisture and I was referred to: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-103-understandin ... which states there should be not vapor barior.
Is there something different that I should know ?
Sid.
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I suggested to dryloc paint the concrete walls before construction which will keep the normal dampness levels down overall. Same with the slab using a latex sealer like Thompsons or Behr. A simple plastic vapor barrier will indeed form moisture between the concrete wall and the plastic, and would not suggest that because that just traps moisture that already penetrated the wall. The drylocing is not the same as a loose vapor barrier, its just waterproof paint. This has been my experience with basement mustiness/mold forming in a few years when moisture (not seepage) penetrates the concrete then has no way to escape the stud wall or insulation constructed against it. I assume you have no real seepage and that it is not a cinder block wall. You can go without drylocing or sealing the slab, my experience with 8 or 9 basements is to seal it first for mustiness control.
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