Powered Computer Speakers - No Sound

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On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 05:12:15 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@none.com wrote:

I bought these a couple months ago for my PC. Replaced a set twice as big and with a big separate sub-woofer. Really cleared up my desk. (Amazon.com product link shortened)
They are USB powered, have good sound. Heavy metal cases, but small. About 5x5. 2 1/2 wide. Sub-woofers have good bass.
And I bought these a couple weeks ago, for my wife's PC. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16836121013
They are powered by AC, and also have good sound. Plastic cases, light, and about half the size of the other ones. No sub-woofer.
I can recommend both of the above. The first one is better to my ears because of the sub-woofers. You can read the reviews on both.
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On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 05:49:54 -0500, Vic Smith

Thanks for the links. I do tend to question the USB powered ones though. Computers only have limited power, and I found that out when my power supply fried on one of my computers some years ago. The OEM power supply was only 100W. I added several hard drives and other devices and it fried. I replaced it with a 300W supply.
Anyhow, my JBL speakers that just died, had a wall transformer rated at 12Vdc at 1 amp. A fairly hefty transformer and rather large in size. It would seem to me that a computer power supply would need to be pretty hefty too. I know that before that 100W P.S. fried, my computer would constantly crash. After replacing the P.S. my crash problems ceased. Apparently my CPU and main board was not getting adaquate power, and thus it would crash the system.
Anyhow, I'm a little concerned about using speakers that run off USB power, and having my system crash because of high power requirements on peak music output levels..... Just a thought!!!
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On Friday, October 30, 2015 at 3:48:17 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@none.com wrote:

You're correct...you should avoid USB and adapter powered unless you have minimum requirements. I bought a Logitech w/sub (p/s built-in) for $5 at a garage sale. [Max. current: 0.5 A (USB 2.0), 0.9 A (USB 3.0 & 3.1)]
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On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 15:47:15 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@none.com wrote:

computer can supply 5 unit loads - or 500ma total - so a USB power amp can only consume 2.5 watts of power - so can not output more than 2.5 watts of music power.
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snipped-for-privacy@none.com wrote:

Ever since I got free bee Beats Bluetooth headphones I never use speakers(Yamaha brand). Being advanced amateur musician I can't stand poor sound coming out of cheap stuffs.
thus it would crash the system.

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On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 15:47:15 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@none.com wrote:

I don't think the system can crash because of too many USB or too much USB usage. What would happen is that the USB device wouldn't work properly, and when you unplugged something everything else would work right again.
If you need more power than the computer will supply, get a powered USB hub.** They're not expensive.
**That's what you have right now, just less power.
I bought my USB speakers for use with my laptop, but I'm having trouble with the connectdions in the back of the desktop and until i fix them, the USB speakers from Logitech work great. They're discontinued however, and i don't know what they sell in their place.
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USB speakers.. the WORST idea since power windows & door locks in cars!
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On Sun, 1 Nov 2015 18:14:41 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I wont be buying any of them. Why should I buy a powered hub, or install a bigger power supply, when I can just buy speakers that plug into a wall outlet.
Even if I did add a bigger PSU, I'd be concerned about the USB plug burning out from such a high current draw thru small wires. USB is for powering low current draw stuff, like portable drives, keyboards, and so on.
I agree about the power windows and locks too. I had a car that had both and by the time I got rid of that car, only one window opened. I refused to pay over $300 per door to have them fixed. The parts alone were around $150. At least the locks still had the manual buttons, or I could have been trapped in the car when the alternator quit, and I got most of the way home on the battery before it died too.
I avoid buying any car with that junk now.
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On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 14:23:38 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@none.com wrote:

Those two are great. Especially when you're the only one in the car and you want to lower the top and all the windows.
Or you want to unlock the passenger door without crawling over the center console. Or you want to lock all the doors when you leave the car.

The powered hub suggestion was for a broader set of usb devices than just usb speakers. You had expressed concern that usb speakers would use too much current. How much more so a USB harddrive, USB camera, USB keyboard receiver, etc?

I don't see any reason to get a bigger power supply unit.

I don't think that's possible. Whatever powers the USB jacks is limited in power, and not enough to burn out the wires.

All my cars for the last 27 years have had PW and PL, and never any trouble. I think sometimes people park under trees that are losing their leaves and the leaves get in the doors and turn into sludge that keeps the water from draining out of the doors. That can be bad for PW. The one time I heard water sloshing around in a door, I pulled down the rubber cover and let the water drain.

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On 11/04/2015 12:19 AM, Micky wrote:

Power door locks are great when you have to drive through the bad side of town. (They keep the hookers from jumping into your car at a red light.)
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Arnie, Micky:
Very simple: Make sure the other three doors(or one if its a coupe) are locked before you settle in to drive off. Then lock your driver's.
In both mine and my wife's sedans, putting them in park unlocks only the front doors - regardless of what position we put the "child-proof" switches. And believe me, it took 15 years of combined ownership of cars with power door locks & windows to finally say I'm SICK OF THIS CRAP!
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On 11/4/2015 9:10 AM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

A friend of mine's Buick locks and unlocks the doors, automatic. I don't much like that. Not sure he does, either.
I don't like my GM that turns on the lights when it's dark out. That's my job, to decide.
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On 11/4/2015 8:42 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Have him RTFM, Stormin, auto lock and, IIRC, the headlights are programmable from the DIC (Driver's Information Center). I had a Park Avenue where everything was programmable. Auto lock was ON or OFF, Unlock was OFF and ON as well as Just the driver's door or all doors. Right side view mirror programmable to look downward when in reverse so you could see how close to the curb you were and on and on.
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On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 9:03:30 AM UTC-6, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

+1 on my Buick. (˛•̃•̃)/\(•̃? ??̃¸)
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On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 10:03:30 AM UTC-5, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

While I won't argue that it is a good idea to read the manual, I would like to point out that different models and even different trim levels within the same model line have different levels of programmability and it's far from linear or even logical.
I have 3 Hondas. I'll ignore the 2003 Element because of the age of the vehicle. Let's look at the 2006 Odyssey EX-L and the 2007 Civic LX. The EX trim level is higher than the LX trim level, therefore the Ody has many more creature comfort features than the Civic LX. There is a vast amount of "electronics" in the Ody EX compared to the Civic LX. However, I can program the locks in the Civic LX in something like 4 different configurations, yet I cannot program the locks in the Ody EX at all. Programmable locks in the Ody are not available until you reach the Touring trim level.
My point is that we can't use any blanket statements regarding the programmability of features, even within the same manufacturer, and even if the same trim level designations are used across model lines. It really is model line specific, at least within the Honda world.
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DerbyDad03 wrote:

after market remote starter/alarm installed it can have more features and it over rides OEM features. I always have after market one installed when I buy new vehicle and program everything the way I want. Stock remote start has very poor range. One reason I don't care about that.
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I got an unknown slot into the dash of my new Kia - not marked - - not in the owners manual that I can find - Duh .. It took me ~ 10 minutes to crank the spare tire down & remove it - ... another 10 minutes to put away the jack .. Duh. I also bought a new wireless laser printer today .. Anyone know the number of the suicide hotline ? ps : the printer's USB install was a breeze ! for both the olden XP Pro tower and the Win 8 laptop - sakes alive ! but I'm a wireless luddite .. I think I need a wireless hub <?> ... or home network ? .. to allow the new printer to be used with visiting laptops or smartphones ... ? Dunno .. Nothing is simple. John T.
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On 11/4/2015 10:00 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

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On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 09:42:34 -0500, Stormin Mormon

going at 10 in the morning, after having to turn them on a 6 when you left home - - - -
I like the automatic headlights on my Taurus - and if I don't want them, all I have to do is flip the switch to either OFF or ON instead of AUTO... Seems to me Ford got it right - and GM doesn't even have a headlight switch on some??
As for the locking - it's programmable. You can program whether they auto-lock, and even auto-open on some cars - and whether all doors or only the front, or only the driver's side open.
It's a bugger when they start locking and unlocking as you are driving down the road though - particularly when the alarm also goes off sporadically when you park the car. Fixed my wife's Taurus today - the "door ajar" switch was fussy so I bought a new one from the dealer for $27.00 and spent half an hour skinning my knuckles putting it in (after spending an hour Friday troubleshooting it) Don't know why everyone wants to overpay for stuff by buying it online - best online price I could find was something like $31 American plus $18 shipping and another $9 or something in brokerage fees - and that was for an AFTERMARKET part - not even a genuine Ford. The "stealership" didn't have it in stock, but ordered at 1pm yesterday it was ready to pick up at 8am today.
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On 11/4/2015 8:56 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

DING! DING! DING! DING! DING! DING! DING! DING! DING! DING! DING! DING! DING! DING! DING!
Now, what did I leave turned on, this time?
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