Ceiling fan with light kit, fan and light on individual wall switches.
There are internal switches (pull chain) on the fan too...on/off for light,
high/medium/low/off for fan. Everything worked fine.
Wife in a cleaning frenzy took off light globe to clean and put in
higher wattage bulbs (60w replaced with 100w). Light no longer works.
I figured the light pull chain switch was bad so took it out of the circuit.
Light doesn't work
I checked wall light switch with multimeter, just fine, 120v.
Took off light canopy, got 120v at wires to it.
Plugged canopy wires into wall outlet, light works.
Put back light canopy (no bulbs) got 120v everywhere
Screwed in bulbs, no light, no power at canopy or wires to it.
Backed out light bulbs a couple of turns, power at canopy and wires to it.
A hearty huzzah to any and all that can solve my problem.
> Wife in a cleaning frenzy took off light globe to clean and put in
> higher wattage bulbs (60w replaced with 100w). Light no longer works.
Have you exceeded the wattage capacity of the ceiling fan?
Ceiling fan light kits with any other socket type including but not
limited to candelabra screw base sockets, intermediate screw-base
sockets, 2-pin halogen sockets, and bayonet sockets manufactured on or
after January 1, 2009, shall not be capable of operating with lamps that
total more than 190 watts and must be packaged with lamps that together
total 190 watts or less. DOE indicated in a January 11, 2007, final rule
that it recognizes that manufacturers may choose to follow one of
several possible design pathways to ensure that the light kit is not
capable of operating with lamps that total more than 190 watts. 72 FR 1270.
come with a "feature" that limits the total wattage of the lamps. In my
case, I put in 3 CFLs in a fan. Apparently the limiting device does not
play well with CFLs. The lamps were not wired to the dimmer control in
the remote control radio receiver, but instead, directly to a wall
switch. However, after anywhere from 2 minutes to more than an hour,
the lamps would simply shut off. After this fiasco, I crawled up to the
fan, some 25' up and changed the lamps to 3 - 60 watt incandescent and
at the same time, re-wired the lamp circuit to the remote control radio
receiver. Now the lamps don't shut off by themselves, are dimmable via
the remote, and actually provide more light than the 60 watt equivalent
CFLs (no surprise). I would have originally put in 100 watt equivalent
CFLs, but they were not to be had at that time, with mini candelabra
base anyway. Now they are available. But what I need to to is get rid
of the over wattage "feature". The manufacturer seems to have buried it
somewhere in the bowels of the unit. I have another, different model
fan, that has the module in the canopy for easy by-passing, if
necessary. It's hard to find the module while hanging on a ladder 25'
up in the air. However, I do have a 2nd identical unit, with a lower
ceiling, which I will use to re-engineer the design. Actually, that 2nd
fan has to be moved anyway, do to a re-modelling of that room. In the
original room, I'd like to use the 100 watt equivalent CFLs for their
lower power and maybe eek out a few more lumens. At that distance, you
don't get a lot of light down here were human reside. Sorry for
babbling on about my problem, but, if you haven't, try the original lamps.
Are you sure you're not seeing a phantom 120 volts on the wires going to
the canopy? If you're using an electronic multimeter it may indicate 120
volts (no load) through capacitive coupling, but won't support any
significant current draw.
Try taking a leaded lamp socket and bulb and connecting it to those
wires. Does that bulb light?
Jeff points out, you may be seeing a no load 120 volts (leakage) through
that device. BTW, I don't recall seeing these limiters before about 4
years ago or so. I even have one in a floor lamp! But, in that lamp it
is easy to see. It is a plastic box in the line cord. It even has an
on off switch. And, on this one, it is apparently CFL friendly. On a
ceiling fan, power limiters can be hidden in many places.
Since moving bulbs in and out seems to affect the circuit being dead or
live, I would be looking for a loose connection where the two wires from
each socket are spliced together with the two wires that attach in the
When the old fan came down so new one could go up, the problem was
apparent...there was a remote sensor. Take out that and the old fan and
light work fine. New fan goes back to Lowes.
Why the sensor cuts off power to the bulbs if they are removed and replaced
I know not. Nor did we have a transmitter for the sensor. Might be one
there somewhere but let the new owners/renters use the wall switches.
dadiOH - 1
Gremlin - 0
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