A lot of the "heavy" wires years ago just had thicker insulation. The newer insulation is thinner for the same effectiveness.
Everything today is built as lightly as possible - with the American manufacturers being every bit as "guilty" as the Japanese.
And what's wrong with a real basement? (it's an extension cord to a shop light n*****ts!)
Posted inline?? You didn't post ANYTHING of an value - inline or not And you didn't trim anything either.
There's nothing wrong with a real basement. Why do you ask?
So are you saying that it is *not* a piece of Romex? That is what I asked.
IT IS NOT A PIECE OF ROMEX OR ANYTHING SIMILAR! How's that, plain enough?
Why are you yelling?
Why did you ask me "what's wrong with real basement?"
Why do you have trouble answering simple, direct questions?
Down & dirty is to use an old computer UPS. Rip out the batteries & extend the wires that went to the batteries to big clips (from an old batt charger if you have) & you are good to go.
MikeB
Well the rating on the converter was far less than that simple drill required. I had underestimated what the drill needed.
I do.
If you're going to make an omelet, you have to break a few eggs.
I've stripped and spliced and soldered wires in most of my cars and the metal part of these new wires are definitely thinner.
That's what I was afraid of.
Motors can be rough on invertes. Big start up current. What was the rating of the inverter, and of the drill?
...and that's why they sell inverters and the cables required to hook them to the battery: for those that need extra power. (BTW I have a 1000 watt inverter and the cables required to hook it to the battery. However, I don't think that everyone should pay extra for a heavy duty accessory port just because some of us need more power.)
...and how does that apply to this situation?
A former co worker got tired of buying batteries for his 12 volt drill years ago. He just rigged up a cord for it with clamps for the battery. Maybe that would be an option since retailers are selling drills and such without batteries.
You want to see the wires in an airplane. The wiring in most older cars - American or not, was grossly over-sized - to make sure there was enough conductor left after corrosion attacked the conductors.
With newer sealed connectors that is less of a problem.. The wires in today's vehicles are sized for the anticipated load.
It still needs to be able to supply the needed power - which means bigger than 1KVA - and there are VERY few 1kva or larger UPS units that run on 12 volts. Most are 36 or 48 volts.
No, they are commonly available here as 12 volts, and almost free at Goodwill or junk stores as well as new like:
But correct he will still need to size it to the drill he plans on using.
MikeB
"That's nice honey, but that's the bathtub, not the pottie!"
He'll get there, eventually . . .
Got some alleged 12ga speaker wire from Ebay. It was the right diameter OUTSIDE for 12ga wire, but inside was perhaps 18ga wire. The thick jacket was just for show . . .
There's always more than one way to pare a possum!
Same thing happened to me years ago. I have a small inverter that runs my laptop computer just fine. But I wanted to drill a hole in my mailbox, to replace the cheap plastic flag with a sturdy metal one I saved from another mailbox that was junk. The drill just kicked the inverters reset.
At the time I did not have a cordless drill, but that would have worked fine. I just removed the mailbox from the post and took it to the garage to install the flag. More work that way, but it did the job.
Motors have high starting current. Maybe the drill says 6 amps, but it may need double that amount to start. Drills are not as bad as big motors though. Motors with a start-capacitor need less amps to start, but all of them still have a high draw when they start. Thats why your house lights may flicker when a well pump, air compressor or other large motor kicks on.
Read the amps on your drill, get an inverter that is double that amount, and add a little more. Example, if the drill needs 6A, get a 15A inverter.
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