Possible Dishwasher Problem with Hardwood Floor


As mentioned in another thread, I'm in the process of putting down 3/4 T&G in a few interconnected rooms/hall. I'm not in the kitchen yet but I knew up front the dishwasher clearance may be a strong possible issue. The combination of the kitchen had new vinyl many years ago where underlayment was used, as it should have, and now adding 3/4" more. The old underlayment does not go under the DW. Stops at the kickplate.
I did some quick visual after removing the kickplate and, as suspected, it looks grim. Very little clearance between the stone counter and top of DW. The DW foot rails don't look like they will make it once the hardwood is in unless it can be tilted up some once everything is loose. Plan is to put down a scrap strip of flooring, loosen up the DW and see what happens.
To stir up the pot some more, the 3/4 will be laid on ends to the kickplate.
If this does indeed turn out to be an issue, I'm looking for ideas on what has been done in similar situations. The only thing I can figure is to have a small depth section the width of the DW that can be removed with some unorthodox improvising of removing the bottom of the grooves on the left and right of the section. The section could be carefully screwed from the basement fortunately...I think that's fortunate anyway.
I have no other experience with this type of problem so the only other thing I can come up with is some type of inlay that is lower than 3/4.
Just looking ahead so I know what my options are if necessary.
Thanks, Red...
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Use a piece of plywood from the back wall right up to the inside edge of the kickplate. The plywood should be as thick as it is possible and still allow the dishwasher to not raise up the countertop. But why worry, as long as the flooring extends to the inside edge of the kickplate, no one will see what is behind the kickplate. Your description of how the flooring will be laid is confusing, are you saying the flooring is parallel to the countertop, or is it at right angles to the countertop?
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wrote:

Thanks for the reply.

I'm usually good for that.
The concern is not being able to get the DW out once the flooring is laid. So, have to figure out a way before it gets locked in. Not even positive it's a problem yet. Will know shortly as I will be moving into the kitchen area shortly.
What I meant is the board ends will meet the kickplate - Boards perpendicular to counter.
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How much would it cost to run the floor under the DW? You could even use pieces of flooring that you don't want in the middle of the floor (opposite direction, if necessary). Using the same flooring under the DW will get it to the same height as the main floor so it can't be trapped.
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Red Green wrote:

If you do go with hardwood in kitchen (bad idea IMHO), bite the bullet and strip the floor down to plywood subfloor. If you understandably don't want to pull the base cabinets, buy or rent an appropriate saw to flush-cut the (probably particle board) underlayment and vinyl over it.
I've seen kitchens where DW got trapped, and they had to do some real hacks and butchery for work-arounds. IMHO, finish floor should fill DW alcove, and the wall and cabinet base edges should be caulked, to direct any leaks out into the room where you see them quickly. Even in there is enough room to adjust DW legs and get it out, you don't want it sitting in a wading pool.
--
aem sends...


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There is considerable wiggle room up on most dw's but the only way to know for sure is to try it. Take a scrap of your floor and nail it in front of the dw. See if you can get it out.
Personally I'd never put t/g wood in a kitchen. I live in a slightly upscale neighborhood (not starter homes but not luxury either) that we moved into when it was built. About half of them have t/g in the kitchen. Over the 18 years we've been here at least 1/2 of those have had to rip up sections or all of the hardwood in the kitchen because of water damage. And by placed the ends at your dw the number of damaged boards goes up a great deal. In most cases the problem started with a small leak that was not detected immdiately. Because small leaks almost never are. T/g warps up in less that a day when exposed to water under it. The warp is permanent. Most of the houses with t/g in the kitchen also showed significant wear along the traffic patterns inside of 10 years. Kitchens have very consistent traffic patterns. While it is a hard flooring, we tiled all our baths and the kitchen.
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I meant to add that when you encounter one of these that is trapped the fastest solution is to remove the screws holding the countertop. They can be found inside the cabinets on either side. Just take out the front ones and loosen the back ones. You do have to do this the entire length of the countertop in most cases. Then tilt the front of the countertop up about a inch or so and hold it there wit a few small scraps of wood on either side of the dw.
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jamesgangnc wrote: (snip)

That works in a properly built kitchen. Last 10-15 years, common practice is to glue to counter to top of base cabinets with construction adhesive and call it good. Major PITA to crawl inside the base cabinets, and screw up into the counter, especially if there is no young limber kid on the crew.
--
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Yes, I'd be really pissed if I encountered that on a kitchen remodel. That would suck.
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Had/have similar problem; however when replacing our DW found that end (over the DW) of one of the two fairly cheap 8 foot counter tops in our kitchen was not that firmly fixed down. And it was possible with assistance to pry up the counter top slightly and wangle the DW in under it. This would not work with very heavy counter tops and/or one might crack it???? Our alternative; if/when we redo our kitchen floor will probably be to disassembled both of the lower counter cabinets and raise them slightly; that may involve extending the plumbing slightly. Higher by 3/4 inch sounds like a lot! Having installed the cabinets myself some 40 years ago it should be possible. Good luck.
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wrote:

Does the DW alcove have a horizontal rail at the top, say 1x2?
I've had such a cabinet and have seen others like this. There was always the option of removing that rail and ripping it down a bit for more clearance.
My present alcove does not have that railing at the top (cabinet has 3/4" gap at the top - under the stone substrate). The kitchen is tile and stops real close at/under the kick plate.
Get the measurements of the DW had check the rough opening.
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Thanks to all for the various replies.
I'll know soon enough if it indeed is a problem. As previously planned as well as suggested. Will be running some scraps and try to get it out.
T&G choice as well as ends being laid in that direction was not my decision/choice.
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.16.185.252:

We'll keep our fingers crossed.
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Final answer is...not going to bring wood floor into the kitchen. Did a delicate pitch to SWMBO this morning. Foyer, hallway and eat-in is it and that's done except for new base trim. Came out flawless including having to raise half the area 3/8" because I removed old popping and broken tile.
Will be transitioning wood floor to a tile in the kitchen. Solves several current issues, including some never mentioned, as well as potential issues like leaking sink/DW/disposal. Especially with the fact that the board ends would be butted against the sink/DW setup.
Thanks to all for the input.
Red...
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