18" x 18" porcelain tiles
I've usually read to apply thinset to the floor but I just read an article
that suggested buttering individual tiles. This article said it was highly
recommended for porcelain tiles. To my simple mind this technique has big
advantages for a newbie at this like me.
maybe article was a poor term. it also has a bullet on applying thinset to
it just seems to me that buttering individual tiles, while definitely
slower, is a bit more forgiving of having trouble with one or more tiles
while your thinset is hardening on the floor.
On the other hand there really isn't any continuous bed of thinset this way.
I'm not sure if that's a good or bad thing.
Was it this article? :-)
"Applying the thinset mortar to the tile instead of the floor will
result in a flatter and cleaner tile floor. Foundations tend to draw
moisture away from the mortar causing it to dry very quickly. Beginners
will benefit from this technique as they will have more time to work at
a slower pace. In addition, because this method of application offers
100% coverage, the risk of air pockets becoming trapped under the tile
are significantly reduced and the grout will also have a deeper, more
secure base. This technique is most effective for tiles larger than 8" x
8" in size and is highly recommended for most vitrified porcelain tile
Don't worry about a continuous bead of thinset. Bonding is the key.
Combing thinset on the subvstrate is quicker and provides the
recommended 80-100% bonding coverage required.
Either way you want to do it will be fine.
Eh, so? I got news for you, isolation membrane wasn't mentioned. But
since you butted i nwith it, Hardibacker in and of itself is a superior
substrate to 3/8" ply covered with anything.
-end of conversation-
Whats the problem with that ? The "general" normally has him use a cheap
but dense 3/8" 'chipboard' sheet material (not OSB-not MDF) that you can
break into pieces with your hand. The name escapes me right now. The tile
guy ( 25+ yrs in the business, doing most of the custom 700K-1.2M
neighborhood) and I agreed that although a little more $$, ply , glued and
stapled to the structurefloor (for a total of 1 1/8" ) was the better way to
We've been walking on the floor a year now and no problems.
Chip board, cushioned vinyl flooring, particle boards of any type, luan
plywood, OSB (Oriented Strand Board), tongue & groove planking, and
hardwood floors are unsuitable substrates to directly install ceramic
Although it can be done successfully, many experts believe that ceramic
tile installed directly to plywood surfaces should be avoided whenever
possible. Plywood has a smooth surface and tends to swell, warp, and
delaminate when it is exposed to moisture. Install at your own risk.
Since the tile is installed "inside" the home, I don't anticipate any
moisture exposure in there.
This process has worked fine in our homes so far over many years.
The only time I had plywood delaminate "inside" was when one house was being
Before it was dried in, it rained for a week, THEN 2 sheets of probably 20
of the ply delaminated.
I don't anticipate any rain in this one since we've been living in it for
over a year now.
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