Pool pump Electrical


I noticed my pool pump wasn't running yesterday. I noticed a smell from the timer control box the classic plastic electrical smell. Upon inspection leg of the relay switch had the insulation melted off the wires( 2 wires)and burned. Hear is a description of the system, there are two relay switches one for the pool pump and one for the pool sweep booster pump. they are both 220V. on the pool pump each 110 leg has two wires one for the pump one for the chlorine generator. At first I thought the pump was jammed, there was a slight hum but did not sound as loud as a jammed motor hum. Before finding the burned wires I shut the pump manually turning the switch on and off the pump kicked in and ran perfectly. But turning it off and on it did not start all the time. So this is leading to believe there is a problem with the relay switch. The motor is 220V 10.5 amps, the chlorine generator is 220V 1 amp. Both of these are feed off one relay that is wired to a timer.( chlorine gen runs off same timer as pump) The system is protected by a 25 amp breaker. Also the motor is a capacitor start. So hears my questions 1: Dose this sound like the relay has failed? 2: Could it be the Motor, something with the capacitor maybe? 3: Why did the breaker not trip off, there had to be an over load? Also was told if the motor was overloading the internal breaker would shut it down. the pump is about 4 years old. the chlorine generator is about 9 months old. I have shut off all the breakers and the main pool breaker at the house. Any suggestions before I have to make a call. The relay is pretty easy to swap out so I'm thinking of trying that if it's not to much $$$$$. Thanks
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brainstorming: chlorine or rust eating the relay contacts. they failed open is not itself an overload causing a tripping of a breaker. a poor electrical contact causes amperage to go way up and overheat the connection or contact or wire or thermal cutout. let your electrician replace burnt parts and wires, and he will ammeter test the motor's load. if there is any loss of power thru the timer or any electrical device it will cause problems. the circuit breaker itself and its wires can be checked. there should be no power drop from the breaker to the next device. this site suggests a new capacitor as well: http://www.poolrepair.com/help/faq1.html and http://www.tropixpools.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat 40 but, at this age will you be facing a $100 motor rebuild of the bearings? see online manuals at: http://www.haywardnet.com/inground/products/manuals.cfm#PumpsIn_Ground
Sacramento Dave wrote:

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Sacramento Dave writes:

Could be a motor problem, such as failed start capacitor. Both the start and run windings on the motor are energized, but with the failed capacitor, the motor never starts, or doesn't start reliably, and the centrifigul switch never cuts out the start winding. The current for both start and run windings on the stalled motor exceeds the relay capacity and overheats the wires, but not quite enough current to trip the breaker.
Motor capacitors are easy to swap, and are a failure point, so you should have a spare on hand, and use it to test your motor. Good sources are grainger.com, eBay, or as a last resort an appliance store or pool store. Never seen them at a hardware store or Home Depot.
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