pool pump

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Thanks for the weather data, interesting the ground temperature I guessed 80 before.
You obviously get higher RH than 20, it just must coincide with the lower temperatures at night or first thing in the morning. Dewpoint seems to have peeked at two days at 70 and one day at 71 this year.
SQLit wrote:

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at your elevation the 106F at 40% is a dewpoint just shy of 77F. I have some worst case humidity data for there, but it shows nothing close to that. Maybe early in the morning when the temp is lower perhaps you would be seeing 40.
Maybe higher RH at lower temps during the monsoons
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Or if you want some *really* definitive information about 'water' and 'steam', try www.iapws.org (these guys need to get a life ;-) (the math is not for the faint of heart!!)
daestrom
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I dare you to plot and prove what you calculate. Scan it as a jpeg and give a link on your site.
Plot the process on a pyschrometric chart, should be a simple matter to be able to plot and use the standrard pyschrometric equations to back up your goldbergesque calculations.
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Do you guys have to crosspost this crap across so many groups unrelated to your fight?

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havin snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Sounds like the pool pump is indeed sucking air; I would guess from a leaking gasket or o-ring.
Just clean out all the gravel you can by hand, backflush / clean the filter assembly, and replace any o-rings you come across on the low-side of the pool pump.
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Travis Jordan wrote:

Forgot to ask - do you have the optional "Debris Containment System" for the Pool Valet? If so, check to be sure that the air leak isn't originating there.
Do you see bubbles in the clear tank at the pool pump when it is running?
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A- Do not have debris containment system for pool valet. I called the mfg of pool valet and they indicated to me, based on my description of the problem, that the problem was not part of the pool valet system. B- I can see water movement, but not bubbles per se, in the window of the pump.
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havin snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Sounds like it might be a leaky gasket where the pool inlet assembly (the 'window') meets the pool pump body.
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Thx for the reply. Sorry for the dumb question, but what do you mean 'backflush'? How do I backflush?
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havin snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Certain kinds of filters provide a valve that allows you to flush out the filter by running water backwards through it and then out the drain. Other filters (such as the cartridge type) don't have this ability and you have to remove the cartridges in order to clean them. Check your owner's manual or the web site for the filter manufacturer.
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Thx for the tip. I'll research the Hayward C-750 on the mfg website.
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havin snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

The C-750 is a large (75 sq ft) cartridge filter that I think is now out of production. You may be able to find a similar filter assembly on the Haywardnet.com web site. You definitely need to remove and clean the cartridge if you pool service company hasn't been doing this....in which case your system pressure must be off the charts by now.
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Backflush cleans the sand filter (by pumping water from the pool through the filter and out to waste.) Do this once a week, just until the water runs clear and clean.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
  Click to see the full signature.
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Who replaced the pump and filter? If you did then your on the hook. If one of the contractors did then I think they are on the hook. Just how did you take the filter out? Paper filter? Get a new basket, of the proper manufacture. The right basket saves the pump from stray trash.
Sucking air is pretty easy to find start looking at all of the joints where the new equipment was installed. Saran wrap or similar wrapped over the joints TIGHTLY will help ya find the leaks.
Oh the "the hole in the ground where all the money goes"
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Thanks for the reply and suggestion. We replaced the filter cartridge with a new one 6 weeks post-diamond brite. The maintenance company installed the pump (the old one was nearly 14 years old!) about the same time. Please explain how to use Saran Wrap to detect leaks. Sorry for asking a totally bone-head question, but I'm new to the whole swimming pool ownership (and related expensive maintenance) experience.
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you can not finger out how to wrap a piece of plastic around the joint?
Replacing the filter 6 weeks ago and you do not know how to back flush? No wonder the pool is dirty. There is a valve on top that you turn when the motor is off. When I had my pool resurfaced I was back flushing 2-3 times a day for the first week. Proably do not have a pressure guage either.
Time to go to the pool store and learn or pay someone to do it for ya.
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Thanks for this input and put down. Guess I needed that. I thought I could hire someone to take care of the pool as I am on the road a lot. Boy, was I wrong! I'll go outside NOW and wrap plastic around the joints and see if that helps. When the pool was resurfaced, I was out of the country for 3 weeks on a job, so missed the opportunity to learn about the pool from the contractor and relied on the service provider to take care of everything for me. My filter is a paper cartridge. The 'silo' has a pressure gauge on the lid. I'll try to go to a pool supply store tomorrow and see if they can talk me through some of the basics.
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You should have no leaks at all. On advice by good old Sam at the pool store I have no leaks since (a) replacing friction fittings with screw fittings, (b) using Teflon plumber's tape on each male screw part (6 turns over the threads plus three more at the end of the threads.) This is how components of an above-ground pool are assembled every May (disassembled in October or November.)
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
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It's a conservative underestimate.

Oddly enough, I feel no such need :-) BTW, the vapor barrier under the slab was to keep the soil dry, so it's an excellent insulator for upward heatflow.
Nick
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